Planted aquariums vs shrimp tanks

[charlie]

[quotePlanted aquariums vs shrimp tanks --- PART III

Apologies to everyone for the long interval between tutorials. The Shrimp Doctor has been traveling recently for the past month. The next part of our mini tutorial series will be addressing CO2 supplementation in a planted shrimp tank.

Why do we need co2?

Plants combine CO2 with water (H2O) to produce oxygen and glucose. All plants, terrestrial or aquatic, will require CO2 for photosynthesis and growth. In an aquarium without CO2 injection, the CO2 level in the water is usually at equilibrium with the atmosphere (at about 6-7ppm). This level of CO2 is sufficient for low-tech plants which require less light. However, in heavily planted tanks or tanks with high-tech plants (such as HC or UG), CO2 injection is required to supplement the amount of CO2 as these plants start to use up most or all of the CO2 available.

Supplementing CO2 will result in healthier growth of plants, along with a reduction in the ability of algae to grow and reproduce, since the plants are growing to their full potential. CO2 is just as good for algae control as it is for general plant growth, assuming you are injecting it properly and sufficiently. CO2 deficiency will retard plant growth, especially that of high-tech plants.

How to measure CO2

So how do we know how much CO2 is there available in our tanks? CO2 is measure in parts per million (ppm). In a healthy planted aquarium with a pH of around 6.0, the CO2 level is usually kept at between 15-30ppm.

There are many ways to measure CO2 levels. The most common method is to measure pH and kH values of the tank and use it to formulate the amount of CO2 in the water. This is the link which you can use to input your values and get your CO2 reading, http://www.fishfriend.com/aquarium_co2_calculator.html

. However, this method is only accurate if CO2 is the only variable that affects pH in the tank. For many planted or shrimp tanks, we use specific soil to lower pH to a reading of about 5.8-6.2. This will render CO2 readings from the above method to be less accurate.

An accurate way of measuring CO2 concentration is by a drop checker. A drop checker is basically a pH test, but not for your tank water. It measures the pH of your drop checker solution, which indicates CO2 levels. There is an enclosed air chamber trapped between the tank water and the drop checker liquid. The CO2 in your tank will diffuse into the trapped air, and then into the drop checker compartment. It will do this until the water in the tank and the water in the drop checker reach equilibrium. This means that there is an equal concentration of CO2 in both chambers of liquid. CO2 is the only variable affecting the pH in the drop checker, therefore pH in the drop checker is directly related to CO2 levels in both the tank. The colour of the drop checker solution indicates the level of CO2 in the tank.

Blue - not enough CO2
Green - 30ppm CO2 (target level)
Yellow - too much CO2, dangerous for inhabitants

The following link shows how a drop checker is being set up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skE2zBWw7qc


CO2 supplementation in a planted shrimp tank: The Shrimp Doctor's Way

Many articles online has claimed that CO2 supplementation in shrimp tanks retard shrimp growth rate and decreases survival rates of juveniles. In The Shrimp Doctor's MOST HUMBLE opinion, this is not true!

The Shrimp Doctor has had excellent survival rates of both adults and juveniles. In fact, we feel that the frequency of females getting pregnant seems far more often in a planted shrimp aquarium. All of our planted shrimp tanks are supplemented with CO2. So what is the key to master this challenging problem?

There are actually two keys to this problem; Patience (yes, again) and observation.

The Shrimp Doctor does not use drop checkers in our tanks. This is because we believe the best indications of CO2 are the organisms, shrimps and plants, in our tanks. Furthermore, The Shrimp Doctor feels that the target level of 30ppm of CO2 as indicated by a drop checker is slightly too much for a planted shrimp tank.

First, always remember to start off slow. What we mean by starting off slow is to initially have a slower rate of CO2 being injected; say 1 bubble per second. Continue to observe the shrimps' activity level during this time. Slowly increase the rate of CO2 injection daily and continue to observe the shrimps after each increase. The increase in CO2 injection should be done during a time of photoperiod so that the plants will be able to utilise the increased CO2 during photosynthesis. It would be useful for those just starting off to use a drop checker concurrently to monitor the levels of CO2.

The Shrimp Doctor recommends that the level of CO2 in a planted shrimp tank to be slightly lower than the 'optimum' level of 30ppm. Keep in mind that CO2 injection is not absolutely needed for plant growth; it is only used as a supplement. Therefore it is perfectly OK to 'underdose' the amount of CO2 in a planted shrimp tank (this prevents accidental overdosing and killing all your shirmps!)

If anyone has any questions, feel free to PM us or leave a comment. Also feel free to share some of your experiences with us.
][/quote]
https://www.facebook.com/theshrimpdoctor

[charlie]

Part 1

Planted aquariums vs shrimp tanks --- PART I

Many shrimp enthusiasts frequently ask;
Can I have shrimps in my planted tank with CO2?
Should I add rocks or driftwood in my shrimp tank?
How will the fertilisers for my plants affect my shrimps?
Do I have to keep my shrimps in a plain bare tank with just a filter and shrimp soil!?!?
The Shrimp Doctor will attempt to give his two cents worth of advice and suggestions in this post and subsequent posts in the next few days!

To answer the above questions, let us revise the parameters for taiwan bee shrimps. Taiwan bee shrimps thrive best in the following water parameters:
pH 6 - 6.6
GH 4 - 6
KH 0 - 1
Ammonia 0
Nitrates <20 (preferably 0-5)
Nitrites <2 (preferably 0)
Temp 22-24 degrees Celsius

Many plants grow well in the above water conditions. So what is stopping planted tank enthusiasts from keeping shrimps in their tanks or vice versa?

The main reason why shrimp breeders/aquarium owners usually advise beginners to shrimps to start off with a bare tank is because it is easier to control water parameters and remedy any changes if something goes wrong. Planted aquariums require attention to many other variables such as Co2 levels, fertiliser regimes, lighting control etc. If any of such variables are not controlled or managed adequately, it will affect the balance of the aquarium and can result in huge losses in the shrimp population.

Let us take a look at what should be considered before starting a planted shrimp aquarium.

1. Tank cycling and soil

Tank cycling is the first and foremost piece of information that ALL aquarium keepers have to know. How well you cycle your tank will determine the short and long-term condition of your tank. The goal of cycling a tank is for a healthy populaton of de-nitrifying bacteria to colonise the tank, which in turn will break down unwanted waste in the tank in future.

It is advised that new tanks go through a cylcing process of between 4-6 weeks. The Shrimp Doctor cycles his tank for 2 months or more before adding shrimps. The longer you cycle your tank, the more stable it is(note that I am not asking you to cycle it for 483972 years before adding shrimps).

Many planted tanks use ADA amazonia soil. ADA amazonia soil packs nutrients for optimum plant growth. It also helps buffers the water and keeps pH low, which is perfect for shrimps.
However, ADA amazonia soil contains ammonia, which is lethal to shrimps. This ammonia is useful to help a tank cycle as it provides a food source and supports the growth of beneficial bacteria. The good news is that this ammonia will slowly leech into the water from the soil and be broken down by the slowly increasing number of beneficial bacteria in your tank. When ammonia level is zero(with low nitrates and nitrites), then it is time to add your beloved shrimps. The time taken for all the ammonia to be broken down usually ranges between 4-8 weeks.
Therefore patience is key, my young padawan.

There are many other alternatives for soil being used in planted aquariums. ADA amazonia is probably the most popular and with very good results. Other brands of planted tank soil will also require the same cycling process.

Shrimp-specific soils, such as RAC shrimp soil or Borneowild shrimp soil, claim that shrimps can be added into the aquarium within 3-7 days of cycling. Shrimp-specific soils are also said to be nutritive to shrimps with added elements.
Although it is possible to add shrimps in such a short time with these shrimp-specific soil, time is still required for a healthy bacteria population to establish itself. For the planted tank lovers , these shrimp-specific soils are not ideal for planting as they lack the nutrients for optimum plant growth.

So if I want to have a healthy planted tank with high grade Taiwan bee shrimps, which soil should I choose?!?

After many attempts and with experience, this is what The Shrimp Doctor does;

Choose both!

The Shrimp Doctor uses both ADA amazonia and shrimp-specific soil(RAC or Borneowild depending on you colour preference) in our setups. RAC soil is slightly brownish compared to Borneowild soil which is slightly coarse)

60% ADA amazonia soil is mixed with 40% shrimp-specific soil(RAC soil in this case as we find the contrast in colour of the soil quite appealing) and used above a base layer of ADA planted tank products such as ADA powersand, PENAC W and P etc.
These base layer products help promote beneficial bacteria growth and improves the cycling of the tank. They also prolong the health of the soil.

A FULL cycling process IS STILL REQUIRED. Cycling should be done for at least 4 weeks before addition of shrimps. Plants can be planted right from the get-go. Although some plants, such as Utricularia graminifolia, would grow much better in a stable tank i.e after cylcing.

Rearing high grade Taiwan bee shrimps in a planted tank with high-tech plants IS possible! You just need to choose the right equipment, be patient and be diligent. Keeping a planted tank lush and healthy requires effort. Keeping shrimps requires effort. Doing both in one tank requires more than double the effort. So prepare to put in some work.

Stay tuned for more advice regarding keeping shrimps in planted tanks. The Shrimp Doctor will address the issue of fertilisation and Co2 in our next post. Feel free to drop us questions in the comments.

All shrimps of The Shrimp Doctor are kept in planted aquariums. Here are some pictures. Enjoy:)

https://www.facebook.com/theshrimpdoctor/posts/315276801972844

[charlie]

Part 2

Planted aquariums vs shrimp tanks --- PART II

Welcome back to The Shrimp Doctor's mini tutorial on rearing shrimps in planted aquariums. Hopefully the previous post has been useful for some of our followers. We will be addressing some common dos-and-don'ts regarding liquid fertilization in this second part.

Fertilization plays an important role in keeping planted aquariums healthy and lush. Unless you are growing low-tech plants such as mosses or crypts, it is fair to say that 100% of all planted aquariums will not do well without a proper fertilization regime. To understand how to fertilise a planted aquarium, we need to know which are the elements that have to be supplemented in a planted aquarium. The 3 most important macroelements are known as N, P, K.
Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium.

Nitrogen:
Nitrogen is the main building blocks for the formation of amino acids. It helps the plants produce enzymes, proteins, and amino acids required for healthy growth. NItrogen can be derived from nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia present in the aquarium water.
A lack of nitrogen will result in leaves turning yellow. New leaves formed are also small and crippled. A lack of nitrogen also retards growth rate of aquatic plants.

Phosphorous:
Phosphorous, although a vital element for plant growth, is seldom dosed by The Shrimp Doctor. This is because phosphorous is usually present in shrimp/fish food, and also in the waste products of aquatic livestock. An excess of phosphorous encourages the growth of unwanted algae. It is generally one of the last nutrients needed for supplementation because we can get by with very low levels.
A lack of phosphorous would however result in poor growth, paler leaves, and ocassionally green spot algae on older leaves.

Potassium:
Potassium, in The Shrimp Doctor's opinion, is the most important major element that HAS TO BE regularly supplemented in a planted aquarium.
The source of potassium in a planted aquarium is usually from water changes. This is insufficient to sustain healthy growth, especially in a lush planted aquarium. A lack of potassium manifest as yellowing leaf edges or small holes in leaves, especially in established growth. The whole leaf, including the veins, turn yellow.

Trace elements
Common trace nutrients include Iron (Fe), Boron (B), Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Cobalt (Co), Manganese (Mn), Copper (Cu) etc. Trace elements are just as important as macroelements but are often overlooked.

Iron is required for the production of chlorophyll. A lack in iron will result in pale or yellowing leaves. Iron is particularly essential for plants with red colouration to maintain its 'redness'.

A lack of iron can also mean a deficiency in magnesium.
Magnesium is required for iron absoption. Insufficient magnesium results in chlorosis, which is the yellowing of leaves. In contrast to potassium deficiency, veins of leaves remain the same colour. Chlorosis in magnesium deficiency affects only the leaf tissue.

Calcium deficiency manfiest as twisted yellow or pale leaves. Note that calcium is also extremely important in the molting process of shrimps. Calcium deficiency is rarely a problem as calcium is usually present in adequate amounts in our tap water.

Now that we know the main elements that are crucial to a planted aquarium, let's look at how fertilization can affect our shrimps. A few questions that we will address today would be focused on
1) How fertilization affect the TDS level of a shrimp tank,
2) Potential harm caused by fertilization, and
3) How should i dose my fertilizers, The Shrimp Doctor way

1) How fertilization affect the TDS level of a shrimp tank

Total dissolved solids, or TDS, is a measure of the combined content of all inorganic and organic substances contained in a liquid. Taiwan bee shrimp keepers should be aware that shrimps are very sensitive to TDS levels of the water. Too low or too high a level of TDS results in poor growth and molting of the shrimps.
The Shrimp Doctor keeps his shrimps at TDS levels of between 130-135. We are essentially increasing the TDS of the tank when we add fertilizers.

In Singapore, our tap water has a TDS of between 70-90. Many shrimp breeders increase this TDS by adding shrimp-specific additives to tap water or reverse-osmosis water after a water change. Adding fertilizers contributes to this by increasing the TDS of tap/RO water. It is important to measure the TDS level before and after fertilization to make sure that you are within the desired level of TDS. TDS can be measured by a TDS pen which is easily available.

Overdosing of fertilizers can result in fluctuations in TDS levels, which can affect overall shrimp heath.

2) Potential harm caused by fertilization

Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. In this case, too much fertilizers can be harmful to your shrimps.
Excessive amount of nitrogen and phosporus can result in an algae bloom, which in turn can deprive the tank of oxygen and cause shrimp casualties.

Some fertilizers contain trace elements such as copper. Copper in excessive amounts is toxic to shrimps and will wipe out entire shrimp populations. However, the good news is if you follow the dosing directions of most fertilizers, the level of copper never reaches a lethal dose. In fact, copper is also require by shrimps for a healthy carapace(shell).

An inadequate fertilization regime can have detrimental results on a shrimp tank. A lack of any major element can result in poor growth or dying leaves in a tank. These dying leaves will decompose and results in an increase in the level of ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites. Taiwan bee shrimps are extremely sensitive to these compounds, often resulting in casualties even with a slight increase in their levels. Therefore, it is important to understand how to adequately dose fertilizers in your planted shrimp tank.

3) How should i dose my fertilizers, The Shrimp Doctor Way

There are 890,3874,450 brands of fertilizers out in the market. The more popular ones among seasoned hobbyists in Singapore are ADA, Seachem, and Borneowild. The Shrimp Doctor has been using Seachem products with satisfying results.

The first and MOST IMPORTANT thing to note about dosing fertilizers in a shrimp tank is NOT to be afraid to dose sufficiently or regularly. It is far easier to rememdy an algae bloom than a tank of dead decaying plants.
Many shrimp keepers feel that they should not be adding any additives to their tanks due to the sensitive nature of the shrimps. However, as mentioned above, your cautiousness could actually do more harm to your shrimps and tank when your plants start to die.
Remember that adequate dosing of fertilizers ensure a healthy planted aquarium which will keep your shrimps happy.

Keep in mind to always measure the TDS level of your water before and after adding fertilizers. It is most likely that additional shrimp-specific additives will still be required to further increase the TDS of the water after addition of fertilizers. If TDS levels become too high, do a water change to lower it.

Lastly, here's a quick fertlization overview. The Shrimp Doctor Way:

1) Stressing how important it is again, make sure you CYCLE your tank well.
2) CYCLE your tank well.
3) CYCLE your tank well.
4) CYCLE your tank well.
5) CYCLE your tank well.
6) Fertilization using Seachem products;

Seachem Potassium:
Dose the recommended dosage once every 3 days, or
The Shrimp Doctor way: divide the recommended dose by 1/3 and dose daily.
Remember that potassium deficiency is one of the most common cause of poor plant growth and it is crucial to supplement potassium regularly.

7) Seachem Nitrogen:
dose the recommended dose once a week after water change.

Seachem Phosphorous:
The Shrimp Doctor does not regularly dose phosphorous as we find the levels usually adequate. As mentioned, phosphorous is also deprived from shrimp/fish food and waste products. This is usually sufficient.
However, if you have a very heavily planted tank, dose 3/4 the recommended dosage once a week after water change.

9) Seachem Trace elements:
dose the recommended dose once a week after water change.

Do not be put off by how daunting it might seem to keep shrimps in a planted aquarium. Wit a little effort and patience, it is not as difficult as it seems. If mastered, a planted aquarium can bring countless benefits for shrimp keepers.
To name a few; plants in an aquarium absorb harmful compounds such as ammonia and nitrates and keep the water clean.
Plants also oxygenates the water.
Plants provide hiding spots for baby shrimps and provide them with a food source, and in turn increases survival rates.
In The Shrimp Doctor's experience, reproduction rate is much higher in planted aquariums than compared to a bare tank.

It is impossible to cover everything that we know, and want to know, about fertilization of a planted shrimp tank in one article/post.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to PM us or leave a comment. Also feel free to share some of your experiences with us.

Part III of these mini tutorials will be on CO2 supplementation. Til then, happy shrimping!

https://www.facebook.com/theshrimpdoctor/posts/318127188354472

[bettabreeder]

Excellent post! I have always been leery about adding ferts to planted shrimp tanks but definitely will give it a try now. Thank you.

[George2]

Excellent post! I have always been leery about adding ferts to planted shrimp tanks but definitely will give it a try now. Thank you.

I agree. This is an excellent post. I love seeing stuff like this because I find it very useful to have so much information in one location.

[charlie]

Always good to read different approaches in the hobby, especially for me  , since I have a tendency to veer away from mainstream teachings