PH and Buffers

[Greg Turner]

There's not alot of buffers (6.5) that don't contain phosphate (can't use phosphate in planted tanks).  I know there's a SeaChem buffer one but I can't afford dumping that much in.   I heard of people using peat.  Where do you get peat and do you just throw it in one of the filter baskets?  And how much?

Greg

[marine]

Its always been my understanding that if you want lower ph levels, you want a lack of buffering capacity. Buffers refer to carbonates in your water. Hard water has a lot of carbonate and  neutralizes carbolic acid which is generated fron CO2 conatact with your water.
The heavier the buffer load in the water, the more stable the ph. In real soft water the daily transpiation/respiration cycle of your plantload can cycle ph values more than 2 points.
 What is it you want to do with adding buffers?

[marine]

Sorry, forgot about peat. Peat can be purchased at Big Als. It is put into a high flow area in a mesh bag. It really really turns the water to a dark tea colour. The overall effect of it is to reduce the Ph level in your tank and it duplicates the natural water chemistry for soem jungle creek dwelling fish. Its supposed to make discus happy.

[Greg Turner]

Well I've added Discus to my planted tank.  Stable ph was never a concern before with the fish I currently have.   I'd like a solid 6.5 ph.  So uses an acid buffer is appealing.  However, using a phosphate based buffer would be like adding a bomb to the aquarium (algae explosion), not to mention cost.  I currently CO2 inject with a DIY yeast, which makes for unstable ph swings.  If I had the money it would be a CO2 tank and controller and forget buffers.

What do you think of this combination: a little peat (I don't like really really cloudy water), a few oak leaves, a little seachem variety acid buffer (to stabilize things), and continue CO2 injection?  Or, is this a recipe of destruction?

[marine]

Don't get hung up on stable ph. The best thing you can do with a minimum budget impact is to shut down CO2 during the night as plants stop transpiration ( use of CO2 for photosynthesis) and they commence respirating. This will stabalize your PH somewhat. Accept the fact that PH will rise in the day and fall at night with a heavy plant load.
 I had a carbonate harness of 10 deg (well water) in my planted tank and used and electric ph meter. Routinely I saw a 1/2 point swing even with the  heavy buffering and CO2 injection during lights on.
You have to be more carefull with very soft water while injecting CO2 as you can poison your fish with too much CO2. If you start seeing pH values below 6 watch out!!! It is better to have a carbonate hardness of at least 5 deg as it is much more forgiiving.
 As for peat, I'm not saying it will cloud your water but it will dye it a "tea" colour. It acts as a water conditioner as it is acidic but that's all I know about it. Research on water chemistry is interesting and important with planted tanks.
 I hope my little rant is helpfull.