Dry pump or Tank overfill safety shutoff power switch.

[ramblnpony]

In setting up my 180g, I am looking for one or two options for shutting off my sump pump in an emergency situation.

Let's say there is a power failure and I loose my gravity sump flow and then the power comes back on and I overfill my tank and/or run my pump dry.

Would a "Reef Fanatic Level Controller" with one high level float in the tank and one low level in the sump pump area be the solution or are there better options out there?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

[bandit]

Not sure I understand what your asking correct me if I'm wrong. I ave my external pump below my sump and have my sump drilled for a 1.5 inch bulkhead about 3inches from the bottom I then tank a 1.5" 90deg and turn it down so my pump won't suck dry ever unless the sump goes down to less the 1" water.

On head side of pump I have a check valve flapper style, they sell them at bulk reef supply an AZ has them.

After the check valve I have a ball valve. I wish I added 2 check valves though in case one fails. I'm not worried about a flood as its the basement and I never have anough water to do that. But It's ard on the pump for the water to reverse.

[Greatwhite]

Yeah, I'm really not sure what you're asking either... The only way you can overflow your tank is if you are running with a HOB overflow.  A drilled tank will never overfill -- well, unless a bunch of snails climb into your overflow line.

If you put a check valve above the return pump, it will prevent most backflow and will prevent over filling your sump.  When the power comes back on, water levels will rise in your main tank, and then the water will run into the overflow as expected, and into the sump...

Auto top off systems are generally used for handling evaporation...  If you wanted to cut the power to the return pump completely if the water level in the sump is high, then I'm sure you could do something like that with the sensors.  Since it's a float switch, you can probably mount one upside down in your sump so that it powers the return pump when it's dry, and cuts the power when wet.

If you ARE using a HOB overflow on a 180, one would have to ask why it's not drilled.

[ramblnpony]

http://s1178.beta.photobucket.com/user/PinballJunkie/library/180g%20reef%20with%2070g%20sump


  Here are some pics to clarify.
So to help clear things up, I bought my tank 4 years ago boxing day and due to an extended basement now finished Reno I am hoping to get it finally up and running in the next few weeks. I realize my main tank design to sump system may be a little outdated but there is not alot I can do about it now. Yes, I have a drilled tank with two drain siphon bulkhead and return lines - one in each corner. So if my pump stops (power failure) and my drain siphons drain until they suck air and stop working, the concern is, power back on, the sump pump running the sump dry, burning out but not before overflowing my main tank. Comments?

[darkphreak]

You drilled the siphon break in the wrong pipe. Make a post on your thread in the other forum and I will answer your question there.

[ramblnpony]

You drilled the siphon break in the wrong pipe. Make a post on your thread in the other forum and I will answer your question there.

If this were the case then Coralife has drilled hundreds in the wrong place as this was the kit that came with the tank.

Sorry i posted in the wrong thread.

Mod, Could you please move this thread to the saltwater tank builds thread.

[Greatwhite]

If this were the case then Coralife has drilled hundreds in the wrong place as this was the kit that came with the tank.

Sorry i posted in the wrong thread.

Mod, Could you please move this thread to the saltwater tank builds thread.

I have the same setup...  Nothing is drilled wrong... There should be a small hole in your underside of the top elbow in the return line to prevent sucking all the water out of your display.  The problem that I have with that syphon break hole on the elbow is that my return sprays straight out that little hole and it makes a lot of noise -- so I covered it over.

You just need to put a check valve to prevent back flow.  And, put one of the loc-line return sprayers close to the surface in your display so that it hits air before too much water is sucked out.

When power comes back, the display will top up to the overflow, and everything will work as expected.    It's just a matter of keeping the sump's water level at a decent spot that when there IS a little backflow, it stops before the top of the sump. (the check valve will definitely help here)

[ramblnpony]

Points noted Greatwhite. Thanks for the info!

Cheers,
Frank