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Not Enough Outlets

Started by dan2x38, August 29, 2007, 09:49:41 PM

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dan2x38

I was a little slow on that one...  :-[ It would be better to have power bars with lower wattage breakers... This was my type of thinking from the start... Wiring something with a circuit breaker. But I do not know how... I am Ok now just worry about the future. Still want to stay here for awhile. Maybe just some high quailty power bars are in order. Do the math like BD said. If it becomes a problem then approach the landlord. The Noma Home Entertainment power bars are on sale at CT 60% off right now. I have been running everything and a 10,000 BTU A/C unit. I got a PC down stairs with sub woffer & amplified speakers. I run a wireless router, cable router, etc... There is a lot of equipment in this room. Also have surround sound... and this laptop for watching TV...

Everything is on power bars but they are cheapos all less than $10.
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

MikeM

Power bars generally provide surge suppression (minimal on the el-cheapos) and usually have a little pop-out resettable breaker.  From a distribution standpoint, that's mostly adequate.  There's no device you can plug in that will increase the amount of power available on a circuit.  If you are worried about a trip to the breaker box if you inadvertently overload something, then a power bar with an extra breaker will do that.  But a power bar with a breaker will provide no more protection, to either your equipment or a breaker box, than the breaker in the box alone, discounting whatever surge suppression the power bar provides.  If you have a 10 A circuit and put a power bar with a 15 A rated breaker on it, the breaker in the box will trip before the breaker in the power bar.

If you are concerned about protecting the breaker box from tripping, you'll need a power bar with a breaker rated lower-than or equal-to the rating on the breaker in the box (a 10 A or lower breaker).  Really good power bar will have rectifiers and other circuitry to smooth out the power being delivered to your equipment, but they all work on the assumption that there is sufficient power available.

When you do your power calculations, you will probably find that you have power to spare on that circuit, especially given that it's unlikely all your tank heaters come on at once ;)

Alchemist

Quote from: dan2x38 on August 30, 2007, 11:29:48 PM
I have been running everything and a 10,000 BTU A/C unit. I got a PC down stairs with sub woffer & amplified speakers. I run a wireless router, cable router, etc... There is a lot of equipment in this room. Also have surround sound... and this laptop for watching TV...

Everything is on power bars but they are cheapos all less than $10.

Aha...I think the AC unit should actually be on a dedicated circuit/outlet.  If it's an in window one I used to have one of those when I was in a rented house, it drew a ton of current.  I ran a heavy duty extension cord along from a very low use circuit using cable tacks to keep the cord tidy and safe against the wall.  Before I did this our circuit breakers used to trip all the time.

dan2x38

Quote from: Alchemist on August 31, 2007, 07:24:27 PM
Aha...I think the AC unit should actually be on a dedicated circuit/outlet.  If it's an in window one I used to have one of those when I was in a rented house, it drew a ton of current.  I ran a heavy duty extension cord along from a very low use circuit using cable tacks to keep the cord tidy and safe against the wall.  Before I did this our circuit breakers used to trip all the time.

See actually I got no problem YET. I fear one might crop up if I plug in a tiny clock... LOL It is weird how everything is running in this room. My main objective was to learn how to build a set-up to organize my plug ins and hopefully make some sort of circuit breaker. I have no access to my breaker box.
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."