Fish Room Shutdown (and) New Custom Tank Plans!

[bitterman]

the only time my basment gets above 50% was this pas week of very humid wether. In the Winter I actually turn off the Air exchanger to get the humidity in the hour to get in the 40's   I have the dehumidified, but rarely use it. I can drop my house humidity by about 5-10% per day running it during these past few weeks of humid times (I do have air conditioning running right now though also set to 25C in the hose so it doe snot do much).

Bruce

[darkdep]

At my house our AC runs a LOT.  Family likes it cold.  Those levels I reported are WITH the AC running (which drops humidity a lot).  In the winter it's ungodly. 

[Fishnut]

From your recent conversations with the HVAC pros, how do you plan on creating a ventilation system to the outside?  I want to know so I can budget that into the basement renovation for my fish room.

So far, I plan on building it like a bathroom.  It'll have the drywall that is resistant to mold, I'll be tiling the whole room (walls, floor and ceiling if that's even possible) and I'll have one of those bathroom fans that you turn on when you shower or create unpleasant smells (it's already in the spot where my fish room will be).  The fan won't be enough, I'm sure.

[darkdep]

For the new tank, I won't be doing much.  I have a basement window nearby, next spring I may rip it out and install some sort of screen/fan/openable window contraption to help ventilate the room.

When I do my next fish room, which (if it happens in this house) will likely be in the garage, I'll be putting in vent fans to the outside for sure.

[darkdep]

Well, I've spent all day getting tank prices, and contemplating various options.  I realized that I really want an 8foot tank but can't because of the stairs to my basement...

So, I re-researched the idea of building the tank myself out of various materials.  Looked at the Plywood option (cheaper, but much more work and, IMHO, higher risk of leaks unless you use fiberglass with the epoxy), acrylic (OMG way too expensive), and glass.

Glass looks like a winner.  It's more expensive than plywood but there's not really any guesswork; as long as you clean the edges and do the silicone right, you're done!  At this time, it's worth the extra cash.  But, still, it's going to be much cheaper than buying a new tank.  Looks like it's time for a DIY article!

I can get the 8' glass sheets down the stairs easily enough (there's an L turn in the middle, but I've brought 8' 2x4's and 8' strips of drywall down without any issues).  I'll have the glass shop cut all the parts out of 1/2" glass, and build it on the basement floor.  I'll put in a support brace on each end, and 1 or two along the length.  According to several calculators online, this gives a significant safety margin.  I'm getting away with 1/2" glass because I pretty much refuse to make it over 24" tall

So, at my first dimension of 96x24x24, that gives a total volume of 240 gallons.  If I convince myself to make the tank 30" wide, that gives me the magic 300 gallon number!

I will have the bottom glass panel pre-drilled from the glass shop, so once in rough place I'll cut out a square along the plywood top of the stand to make room for the plumbing.  With the tank sumped, possibly with a drilled hole on the side for a return (I want to put the tank back pretty much flat against the wall), I should be able to completely cover the top of the tank with sliding glass to deal with humidity.  Oxygenation will come from the sump area, which will have a much smaller exposed surface area.  I'll probably run an airpump into the sump just to add a little O2.

So...in order to do this I'm gonna need some help...probably 2-3 people.  I'm gonna clear out the first section of the fish wall, get the rough stand built, arrange the glass to be delivered (I think I can do that; if not, the store is literally about a 2 minute drive from my house).  Anyone want to assist in building a big glass tank?  It'll be fun!  The panels will be on the heavy side but by dealing with them one at a time it shouldn't be an issue.

[RossW]

If the timing works, I would love to be part of the experience.  Sadly, I have nothing to offer other than strength  and enthusiasm.

[dan2x38]

How about something Like This?

Google concrete block aquariums....

[darkdep]

OMG I would never get the OK for that

[bitterman]

So, at my first dimension of 96x24x24, that gives a total volume of 240 gallons.  If I convince myself to make the tank 30" wide, that gives me the magic 300 gallon number!

APW why not do 36" wide then the remaing glas from the 4x8 sheet coudl be used for top braces? I find tanks that are wider more like looking into the lake, also great for aquascaping. I sometimes wish my 24" tank was wider.

I will have the bottom glass panel pre-drilled from the glass shop, so once in rough place I'll cut out a square along the plywood top of the stand to make room for the plumbing.  With the tank sumped, possibly with a drilled hole on the side for a return (I want to put the tank back pretty much flat against the wall), I should be able to completely cover the top of the tank with sliding glass to deal with humidity.  Oxygenation will come from the sump area, which will have a much smaller exposed surface area.  I'll probably run an airpump into the sump just to add a little O2.

Why not run a trickle filter? It will highly oxygenate the water!!! and no need for an air pump?

I would probably do 3 1.5" bulkheads along the back of the tank for water into the sump. I would use Durso standpipes http://www.dursostandpipes.com/ For water return you can use 1" bulkheads or also use 1.5" onces and get the bulkheads from a pool shop that have the directional jet on them (Downfall is these woudl be drilled in the back of the tank for the water return).  I would do 3 returns also (You could later on got SW with this setup without changes I would think). I would use acrylic to make the overflows.... Your router would make the nice top notches, Sand the areas silicon would be used to attach them inside the aquarium as silicon doe NOT stick ti acrylics very well. For a return pump i woudl go with either a mag18 or mag24 (This is my first choice)

So...in order to do this I'm gonna need some help...probably 2-3 people.  I'm gonna clear out the first section of the fish wall, get the rough stand built, arrange the glass to be delivered (I think I can do that; if not, the store is literally about a 2 minute drive from my house).  Anyone want to assist in building a big glass tank?  It'll be fun!  The panels will be on the heavy side but by dealing with them one at a time it shouldn't be an issue.

Chris I would be honored to help you, Just book it with my wife LOL She seams to have lots of my time booked.

Bruce

[darkdep]

Thanks for the help Bruce!  36" wide would go beyond what I could get clearance for from the wife. 30" is enough.

A trickle filter into a sump is what I was planning.  What I want to do is maximize oxygen exchange given the fact that I want as much water COVERED as possible.  I'm going to go to rather unusual lengths to control humidity, given that it's the reason I need to shut down the fish room in the first place.

I don't want to drill the back; another option must be found.  I will probably run pipe up the left side of the tank, over the top, and it will route accordingly.  Most of this will be covered by the eventual canopy.  I'll need your help to build the overflows

Mag 18 is going to be my pump; I've already got one incoming.

[beowulf]

I would not mind helping out to learn a little and maybe build one for myself in the future.  When are you planning on doing it?

[darkdep]

As fast as possible.  With my life, that means probably a month or two from now. 

Once the fish room is cleared out I'll start the stand.  I'm just going to build the frame for now, I'll wrap it and make it pretty once the tank is up and running.  That shouldn't take long (a weekend).  After that, I'll get a date on the glass order and arrange an acceptable time with all the volunteers.

Thanks BTW to those who have offered to help!  It'll be educational for all of us.  It'll be hard work tho; those panels are going to be heavy (although nowhere near as heavy as the complete tank would be).  It's going to take some careful moving to get them down the stairs but it can be done.

[audioslave_36]

Well as I said before, you can count me in! 

I am free any weekend you need me an most evenings can be arranged.

Dave

[bitterman]

Thanks for the help Bruce!  36" wide would go beyond what I could get clearance for from the wife. 30" is enough.

A trickle filter into a sump is what I was planning.  What I want to do is maximize oxygen exchange given the fact that I want as much water COVERED as possible.  I'm going to go to rather unusual lengths to control humidity, given that it's the reason I need to shut down the fish room in the first place.

I don't want to drill the back; another option must be found.  I will probably run pipe up the left side of the tank, over the top, and it will route accordingly.  Most of this will be covered by the eventual canopy.  I'll need your help to build the overflows

Mag 18 is going to be my pump; I've already got one incoming.

You could use 2 more holes in the bottom and plumb an upside down u out of PVC and drill it at the top for a spray bar. This way you can feed from both ends of the tank and get full coverage for the stray bar. Also plumbing the spray bar so its in front of the overflows will help decrease the overflow sucking food down them when you feed. I can show you what I mean on my 65 if you are ever out before you build this tank setup.

With braces this tank will be incredibly strong! You are basically turning the tank into a bunch of shorter tanks. I'd use 1' wide braces on the ends and 1-2 1' wide braces in the center section. The more braces the stronger, but you must balance that with accessibility to the tank. Since you are say 24", the tank will not hold that much water (Most likely about 22") so you coudl in fact build the tank a little higher such that you have 24" high of water. The nice thing abou a sump is the water loss occures in the sump and the main water level stays constant.

For air you could totally seal the whole system and build an air exchanger to move air from outside and pass over an aluminum heat exchanger, then into the cabinet of the tank. Just seal everything. You might need some extra heaters, but it might be worth it.  This would ensure next to 0 humidity is in your house from the new tank.

Bruce

[darkdep]

That's a good idea with the spraybar.  An 8 foot spraybar sure would look cool, too   I could use several clip on suction cups to help hold it in place.  Any idea if you can buy PVC pipe in any colour other than white?

I want to be able to have access to the tank; centre braces piss me off when I'm trying to catch fish.  Course, I'll probably never be able to catch a fish in this tank no matter how hard I try.  1" might be too narrow; I might go wider just to be more comfortable against banging and breaking the supports themselves.

I don't want the glass higher; the point is to make it easy to clean.  24" is the max I'm able to clean easily.

[bitterman]

That's a good idea with the spraybar.  An 8 foot spraybar sure would look cool, too   I could use several clip on suction cups to help hold it in place.  Any idea if you can buy PVC pipe in any colour other than white?

PVC is only available in white and grey (That I have seen anyways). I would think about painting the PVC black. Several people on the cichlid forum have used the krylon fusion to pain PVC, you can also use PET?? spelling dye.
http://www.krylonfusion.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=10&productid=1751&content=product_details

I would personally just use ABS for plumbing the overflows as it is cheaper and even many SW guys are using it without problems.

I want to be able to have access to the tank; centre braces piss me off when I'm trying to catch fish.  Course, I'll probably never be able to catch a fish in this tank no matter how hard I try.  1" might be too narrow; I might go wider just to be more comfortable against banging and breaking the supports themselves.

1'=1 Foot 

So 1 foot on each end and a 1 foot brace in the center.

To catch fish.. I'll tell you from experience you have to tear the whole tank down... All rock will have to be removed also. Soemtime fish trap work if you starve the fish for a few days before trying to trap them

Have you thought about doing a Water change system to make maintainance easier? You could use the same system I have with some modifications to account for the chlorines. Brita's just use carbon to remove chlorine, so why not? You could drip the water through a carbon box and into the tank? Or a dosing unit?

Bruce

[Mettle]

So... if you build the tank in the basement will you ever be able to get it out if you move?

[beowulf]

So... if you build the tank in the basement will you ever be able to get it out if you move?

LOl i guess it depends on the size he goes!!!  Might be a good selling point to the right person.

[darkdep]

Nope.  "It comes with the house".

Hell may freeze over and the potential buyer may consider it a plus.  But, since that probably won't happen, I'll have to cut it apart and take it in pieces.

As for a waterchange system, yes I want something integrated but it's probably unlikely I'll do a continuous.

[darkdep]

Got my glass quotes today.  Basically, 1/2" (12mm) glass is $12.50 / sq ft.  So, the tank should cost about $775 for the raw glass, then an extra $90 or so for the braces.  $865 + tax.  Not bad for a tank of this size.

I'll need to add a couple of dollars for holes in the bottom (better firm up that design) and it sounds like they will deliver to my house for free as I'm so close.  Rockin!

For those wondering, this cost is MUCH cheaper than purchasing from a retail outlet such as Big Als, but it's pretty much exactly what you'd pay a custom tank builder...I'm not really saving any money.  It's just that I have to go this way to get the exact size I want.  And, the downside to not buying from a retail outlet is, of course, nobody to call and complain to if it leaks