DarkDep's Ultimate DIY: 8 Foot 300 Gallon Tank

[darkdep]

For the stand, it will be 3/4" plywood, then hopefully a thin layer of self-leveling compound (need to see what's available), then a sheet of styrofoam (probably 1/2"), then the pane of glass. 

What I'll do is have the bottom pre-drilled; when it arrives we'll put it down on the plywood, trace out the holes with a sharpie, then remove and drill slightly oversized holes with an appropriate holesaw.  Then we'll put on the styrofoam and carve it from underneath.  Bulkheads will be installed on the bottom, and then we can place it on the stand ready to go.

For bracing: will likely go with 4 8" wide pieces...2 on each side (siliconed to the front, back, and side) and the other two evenly spaced along the remaining open area.  I'll likely get reasonably sized 1/8" glass panels to serve as covers for the open area.  Maybe with small holes drilled so I can use plastic handles for them.  I'd like them to sit inside some sort of lip...not sure what to do here.

The Canopy is going to be a bit of a challenge...need to design it so that I can get inside everywhere to clean, but won't need to ever remove it (cause, damn, it'll be 8 feet long).  Thinking a tight lip here can only serve to help with tank stability.

[darkdep]

Question on the overflows now...Pretty sure I'm going to go with a fairly standard Durso Standpipe model.  Because the tank is glass and I'm not comfortable with the bond between acrylic and glass, thinking I'll just build the overflows out of 1/4" dark tinted glass and perhaps use some eggcrate at the top to prevent any critters getting in.  Will this work?

Also, for the standpipe, is it advisable to build the connector there out of threads instead of slip, so it can be removed?  Not sure if this is necessary or not...

[bitterman]

What I'll do is have the bottom pre-drilled; when it arrives we'll put it down on the plywood, trace out the holes with a sharpie, then remove and drill slightly oversized holes with an appropriate holesaw.  Then we'll put on the styrofoam and carve it from underneath.  Bulkheads will be installed on the bottom, and then we can place it on the stand ready to go.

Get your bulkheads before you cut the plywood, you'll be surprised how big a hole you will require to get clearance. The outside of the nut on my cheap pool store bulkheads are 3.5"-4+" and that does not include working room

Maybe with small holes drilled so I can use plastic handles for them.  I'd like them to sit inside some sort of lip...not sure what to do here.

You don't need to drill holes you can easily silicon glass handles in place using some silicon and 3 smaller pieces of glass per handle. I'm doing this for the glass tops I'm making for my 180.

Question on the overflows now...Pretty sure I'm going to go with a fairly standard Durso Standpipe model.  Because the tank is glass and I'm not comfortable with the bond between acrylic and glass, thinking I'll just build the overflows out of 1/4" dark tinted glass and perhaps use some eggcrate at the top to prevent any critters getting in.  Will this work?

I would actually go with acrylic for a few reasons. First to get a goo bond you can sand the area silicon will be touching, this gives a good bond. Most factory tanks use an acrylic/plastic for there
overflows.  Unless you get glass bent ($$$$) I'd go acrylic. The sharp corner in the over flow box of my 195 has resulted many injuries to several fish. I think the 1/4" glass would be too thin. My 195 has 1/2" thick glass. I like the nice curves that you can get from the acryillic overflows.

Also, for the standpipe, is it advisable to build the connector there out of threads instead of slip, so it can be removed?  Not sure if this is necessary or not...

I used threaded connections for my tank but it will cost some extra $$$ PVC plus is VERY expensive.. It cost about $175 to build the standpipe with bulkhead for my 195.

In fact I would go cheap and use ABS alot of SW guys/gals are using it so it should not cause an issue. I would not glue all the connections for the durso (Only glue certain ones.), I'd use Teflon tape to give a water tight seal, but still allow removal at a later time. I can show you about this if you want Chris.

Hope this helps,
    Bruce

[normc]

Have you seen this page.
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/BuildYourOwn/tabid/54/Default.aspx

[darkdep]

Good idea getting the bulkheads ahead of time...I'll order those this week.

You'll have to draw me a picture of what you mean for the glass handles...?

Hmm...maybe I can go to Canus and ask them to build/curve me three overflows to my specs, then I can just cut the grooves myself with my router...

Bruce, I'm trying hard but I can't figure out why it would cost $175 for a standpipe setup.  PVC pipe is plenty cheap at HD, elbows and such are a buck or two each, how'd it end up costing so much?

[BigDaddy]

Durso pipes are noisy.  Have you considered using what many saltwater folks use?

One of these:

[dan2x38]

Durso pipes are noisy.  Have you considered using what many saltwater folks use?

One of these:

I use those on my 10g plant filter. It makes alot of noise when it drains... I wanted to have a faster input to creat more current but can't... this is a very small scale I would imagine at that level and distance of water falling it would be even noiser...

What about a a over flow box?

[darkdep]

Dursos are noisy?  I thought they were a lot quieter than other designs?

I've seen the thing you're describing but can't see how it's any quieter than an open pipe...

[BigDaddy]

Sorry.. I was thinking of just a straight overflow.

Using the fitting above, you don't have to section off part of your footprint as the overflow to the standpipe.

Looks like this when installed... very low profile and with a T fitting on the other side of the bulkead, just as quiet

[bitterman]

You'll have to draw me a picture of what you mean for the glass handles...?

I've attached a quick sketch of what I mean. Basically i long piece of glass held up by 2 smaller pieces of glass.. You could even silicon marbles in place to act as handles.

Bruce, I'm trying hard but I can't figure out why it would cost $175 for a standpipe setup.  PVC pipe is plenty cheap at HD, elbows and such are a buck or two each, how'd it end up costing so much?

The problem was Home Depot did not have what I needed. PVC plus charged over $75 for the bulkhead (There was a weird sized hole cut in the tank and this was the only bulkhead I could find that would work) and then from that their are several thread piece that were from $10 to $20 each, then the T, Cap and 90 down in 2" PVC all cost some $ I personally think PVC plus has a WB (Why Bother) price for people that walk in. All in all it cost about 175 including taxes.

Bruce

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[dan2x38]

I ordered my plumbing pieces parts Marine Depot. I also got my check valve from there. They are small parts so they'd sent them in post. It cost very little. Of course a lot of stuff from Home Depot.

I used the strainers just as in the pic. and it is noisey. I even drilled a hole on the top of the elbow to allow air to escape still noisey. Would love to figure it out to increase the flow rate... maybe mine is just to small? hey stop laughing  I am talking about my plant filter... 

[darkdep]

I like the look of those strainers enough to consider drilling the back instead of the bottom...it'll mean a few inches clearance at the back but it would seem simpler.  Would you still want an overflow box around these?

I found those in a 1" size, no bigger...Bruce, I know you're strongly in favour of a larger pipe, but with three separate outflows, wouldn't 1" be enough?

BD:  So, you're saying instead of the elbow, you use a T fitting, with one end up, and that is supposed to deal with the noise?  Have you actually seen this in operation with the mod you're suggesting?

[bitterman]

I like the look of those strainers enough to consider drilling the back instead of the bottom...it'll mean a few inches clearance at the back but it would seem simpler.  Would you still want an overflow box around these?

I found those in a 1" size, no bigger...Bruce, I know you're strongly in favour of a larger pipe, but with three separate outflows, wouldn't 1" be enough?

Chris I think you are looking for trouble only using a 1" builkhead. Most people only use them on very small tanks or most often as return lines.  If you want 1.5" stainers you can get them hear. Be warned though this setup can be very noicy!!! The Durso is so much queiter in comparison.

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/store_pages/details/plumbing.php?product_ID=pl-bhst15

Chris you might want to come a look at the overflow setup that is on my 180 that I got form Nelson. It uses the Overflow setup that marinscape has designed. It is drilled throught he back, but used smalle overflow boxes at the back. With 1.5" they say each box should be run at about 500-600 GPH to be quiet but will handle in a pinch upto 1000 GPH (IF something gets plugged).

Since you are going to be running a mag18 on the tank I think that you need the larger bulkheads otherwise you might risk an overfilling/overflow issue. Marinescape said they run a mag 12 for 2 Overflows so a mag 18 for 3 would be perfect. The thing I like about the setup is it does not really wast any space in the tank comparied to a traditional overflow box.

BD:  So, you're saying instead of the elbow, you use a T fitting, with one end up, and that is supposed to deal with the noise?  Have you actually seen this in operation with the mod you're suggesting?

My 65 has a similar setup to this, and I am changing it to a Durso very soon.

Bruce

[darkdep]

Bruce I would love to see what you have set up.  Realistically I can't see myself getting out your way anytime soon tho, but I'll try to carve a hole. 

Still think I want to go through the bottom tho.  In order to do anything neat with plumbing out the back I'm going to need more clearance than I'm willing to provide.

[dan2x38]

How about 2 corner overflows? Check this link. Takes up no external room & easily hid, wastes littl internal tank space really... Here is something could be copied too: http://www.bizrate.com/fishsupplies/oid623495636.html

[BigDaddy]

I like the look of those strainers enough to consider drilling the back instead of the bottom...it'll mean a few inches clearance at the back but it would seem simpler.  Would you still want an overflow box around these?

No, they would drain straight into the sump

I found those in a 1" size, no bigger...Bruce, I know you're strongly in favour of a larger pipe, but with three separate outflows, wouldn't 1" be enough?

Most people will use 2.5 inch drilled holes to accomodate a 1.5 inch bulkead

BD:  So, you're saying instead of the elbow, you use a T fitting, with one end up, and that is supposed to deal with the noise?  Have you actually seen this in operation with the mod you're suggesting?

Not in person but in photos yes.  The problem with a straight elbow is that both water and air get pulled into the tubing.  With some kind of vent above the elbow (a t fitting, some have even used empty pen casings or rigid airline tubing), it allows for the most flow of water with the least amount of noise.

[bitterman]

Bruce I would love to see what you have set up.  Realistically I can't see myself getting out your way anytime soon tho, but I'll try to carve a hole. 

Still think I want to go through the bottom tho.  In order to do anything neat with plumbing out the back I'm going to need more clearance than I'm willing to provide.

You could if you did some fiddling not use overflow boxes..... Would be a PITA to setup correctly, but would most likely work OK. The problem would be synchronizing all 3 dursos and use strainers on them to stop fish getting in. Also have to drill additional anti-syphon holes just below the water line to help ensure when the power goes off the sump level does not get up too high.

One thing I did notice on my miracles tank, When they built it they used small spacers in 3 places on the glass such that they get the perfect thickness of silicon when they clamped the tank together. Excess silicon was trimmed after is dried.

2 corner overflows on a 8' long tank are not a good idea then water/dirt has to move 4' to get down an overflow. Additionally using 3 overflows give a safety margin if 1 overflow gets blocked, the tank should not overflow, with only 2, the mag18 would over power the a single overflow possibly.

Bruce

Here is a site that gives the GPH and size.  http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php It shows a 1" standpipe maxed out at 600 GPH were a 1.5" will give you upto about 1000-1200 GPH MAX. Also note the overflow size recomendations for overflow length.

[darkdep]

Ok, time to move on...3 x Durso Standpipes, drilled from the bottom.  I'll have the overflows priced at Canus out of acrylic and will silicone in place.  For the return I'll have an extra hole drilled near the centre for the return pipe.  I'll Tee it off and will return over the walls of the overflow.

[busdriver]

Dumb question here, have you started building this tank or are you still in the planning stages?

[darkdep]

The Glass is sitting on order, the stand will start construction within the next 10 days.