Meeting location for the 2024/2025 Season will be at J.A. Dulude arena.  Meetings start at 7 pm.

Modifing aquarium stand?

Started by dan2x38, December 19, 2007, 07:22:43 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

dan2x38

I have an aquarium stand that is made for what measures out to be a 170cm x 60cm which is 47.5" x 17.5". That is the measurements inside the top skirt. I wanted to add a 75g 48" x 18". The skirt is beaten up I was going to replace it. What if I removed the skirt and added just 1 sheet either 1/2" or 3/4" thick - plywood, pine board, press board, or furniture press board? The replacement top would only have an over hang of 1/4" - 5/8" to hold a 75g. What would anyone suggest as a matrial, thickness, and if it is a good idea period?
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

RossW

Personally, I would not.  Not sure what the bottom of the tank looks like, but mine have a trim which means that almost all of the weight is supported on the outer 1/2" or so, which in your case is the entire overhang.

What I "might" consider is building a stand around the existing stand.  Meaning building a 2x4 frame outside the existing stand.

I would more than likely try and sell the stand, and use the funds to build a new one, or find a tank the fits.

PoisonJello

actually modifying your stand should be fairly easy..easiest way would be cut a sheet of 3/4" or even 1" plywood or MDF (but the MDF board can swell if not treated) the size you need and put it on top of your stand.. if your worried about strength you could add a nice trim under or around you new top.. you can then stain or paint to make it look like it was meant to be there

there are many other ways to fix your stand but that is the easiest way

also your stand is not to far off, so it was probably made for a 75g just a different brand of tank

sdivell

I agree.  A 3/4" piece of plywood (veneer core - the good plywood) would be plenty strong enough to carry the load for that 1/2" Cantilever.  Now that being said you should deffinitly be supporing the tank on 1" foam as there maybe some minor deflection in the plywood.


dan2x38

Using 3/4" plywood I could use something to trim the edges to look like a skirt to hide the foam. Could even add some nice moulding to trim it up. For sure foam will be needed. Any other issues this might cause some concern. I guess I'd need to finish the plywood to prevent warpage by humidity and/or any spillage? Would normal latex paint be fine? Nothing fancy inside there though?
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

sdivell

Veneer core plywood will be dimensionally stable (meaning wont warp on you) because its not made of glued together sawdust.. its actual sheets of wood glued together with the grain going in different directions so it wont shrink or expand or warp.

If you want to protect it from water damage then go with an epoxy paint.

dan2x38

Thanks sdivell I think that is the plan then. You do contracting or what... seem to know abit about construction?
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

darkdep

You're all good with 3/4" plywood.  I wouldn't actually waste money on Veneered plywood if it was me...you're not going to see it.  Get construction plywood (double layer if you're REALLY worried), foam on top.  You can either paint it the same colour as the stand or put some moulding on the outside to hide the Plywood edge.

Although Epoxy paint is definitely waterproof, it's probably overkill if you just want to protect against the occasional spill.  Regular paint will be fine for that.

dan2x38

Sounds like a plan... that was along the lines I was thinking... Anyone else think it would fail or better suggestion? Not rich but stands will be reduced at BA Boxong Day.
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

Iceman

I would have to agree with APW. 3/4 inch construction plywood will provide you with plenty of strength. I personally wouldn't use MDF or particle board around water.

darkdep

No MDF or particleboard for this application for sure.

sdivell

#11
Not a contractor but I worked as a carpenters assistant while I went through school for Architectural tech. 

yes don't use MDF...paper + water = 75g of water on the floor  ;D

and yes epoxy would be overkill but waterproof if thats what you're looking for.  But as apw said regular paint will protect from water staining..etc.

my personal opinion on construction plywood for this is that i wouldnt use it (if by construction plywood you mean the sheet of wood on either side of the sawdust glue mix) because it will have the tendency to warp and deflect and may put unwanted preasure on the tank.  That being said my experience at building aquarium stands is 0.. but building materials in general is plenty.  My 2 cents is you only need 1 sheet of plywood for this so the extra cost for the veneer core isn't going to break your bank.

dan2x38

Did some plywood research. Here are some drawbacks of vaneer core plywood:

  • Voids in the core and face are common.
  • VC is not always consistent in thickness from sheet to sheet, or within the same sheet.
  • The pre-veneered surface is coarser, and does not accept veneer as well. This results in excessive chipping and tearout during machining.
  • No matter how you cut it, you will be ripping some layers, and crosscutting others. This makes cutting this material with a fine laminate blade more difficult, with a greater tendency to burn.
  • The saw-cut edges are not as clean and smooth as the other products, so this material does not take edge gluing as well.
  • The inconsistency in the pre-veneered surface can result in thin spots in the veneer.

Other research showed stucture/contruction grade plywood is suited for heavy weights and not flexing. Only thing is it an'it pretty. No need for looks for that piece just durability & strength. This plywood also takes gluing well so adding moulding & vaneer trim will be much easier.

Of course I will measure my tank before purchase but since plywood is 4' is that an actual measurement? The 75g tank is it actually 4' outside edge of trim to trim? Trying to formulate my plan might even be able to have my construction completed before Boxing Day... ;)
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

bitterman

#13
Quote from: dan2x38 on December 21, 2007, 03:24:24 PM
The 75g tank is it actually 4' outside edge of trim to trim? Trying to formulate my plan might even be able to have my construction completed before Boxing Day... ;)

A 75 is actually normally about 48.25+" long (Might even be closer to 48.5") and will be about 18.25" wide. This can be different depending on the manufacture, so measure before you plan you changes to the stand.


If you look here http://ovas.ca/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1643 the stand for my 180 is actually about 1" longer and wider then 72"x24" footprint of the tank.

Bruce

darkdep

Buy the tank first :)  Plan to buy a sheet of plywood and cut it on the 96" dimension (i.e a sheet is 4' x 8'...don't expect to be able to use the 4' direction as the long part).

(Yes that probably made no sense...but I know what I mean :) )

The research you did Dan, it's all true but should have little impact on your application here.  Scott has more experience with materials but I've built many stands, and IMHO the deflection you may see over time from construction plywood (i.e SPF plywood with no pretty veneer on it) won't be seen.  An 800+ lb fishtank will take care of any deflection.

If you see Veneered plywood, and you like it, go for it...I only suggest the other stuff because it's cheaper and won't be seen.

dan2x38

Thanks Bruce I figured the tanks might be less then stated not more - good info. Thanks Chris & Scott since I was not sure respect your opinions... Thanks! Chris I understand the 96" d. explanation... LOL So guys I feel you are all right but most importantly will wait until I have the tank at home...  >:( My project is minute compared to yours Chris but I am so ansi to get at it can't imagine your excitement!  :o

This hobby is like a cigarette or herion addiction ya just can't shake it...  ;)
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

dan2x38

I've measured the tank and the measurements are greater than I'd thought. Sure glad I posted and listened! heading to Home Depot tomorrow for the plywood. Anything I should know or consider before attaching to the top?
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

babblefish1960

Don't under any circumstances use nails to affix the plywood to the top, drill pilots and use appropriate sized screws.

dan2x38

Quote from: babblefish1960 on December 30, 2007, 10:57:24 PM
Don't under any circumstances use nails to affix the plywood to the top, drill pilots and use appropriate sized screws.

I never use nails... thanks... Should I screw the base plate on as well as the top?
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

RossW

#19
Quote from: dan2x38 on December 30, 2007, 11:05:07 PM
I never use nails... thanks... Should I screw the base plate on as well as the top?

Is there a reason you would not screw and glue both.  By glue I mean PL Premium, or Liquid Nails or some other glue in a caulking tube kinda stuff.