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How Many Holes and Where?

Started by RossW, May 02, 2008, 12:55:33 PM

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RossW

I have an empty 4x2x2 tank I am considering having drilled before I fill it.  I do not have any immediate plans for a sump but would like to leave that option open.  Is the number of holes and placement a generic thing or is it very specific to each sump design?

Thanks,
Ross



groupie02

Ross,

I have 9 holes on my 65g  :D

It's really up to you as to how many you want to setup. I have 6 holes for my closed loop (2 intakes and 4 outputs).  I also have 2 overflows and 1 return from my sump. Understand that this setup is a bit on the extreme side. It depends on what you want to do. For a sump, I would definately go with 2 overflows just to prevent flooding in case the single overflow gets blocked by something.

As for the location of the holes, you don't want them too close to one another. You also want them far enough from the edges. When I drill a tank, the overflows normally go about 6" from the top and 6" from the side. I guess it also depends on the type of overflow you're going to use.

You can drill you tank, install bulkheads and cap them.

Here are links to my sketch and setup.




RossW

WOW... here I begin my slide down the slippery slope.

The closed loop is to provide flow in your tank without the use of powerheads, correct?

The return hole is in the middle of your tank, is this where you would place even if you did not have closed loop?

Thanks,
Ross

groupie02

Correct! The closed loop is used to create flow without power heads. Since my tank is inwall, I drilled holes on the side and on the back for the closed loop return. The lowest 2 holes are my intakes for the same closed loop. I combined those with a T fitting to connect to my pump. The output from the pump goes to an Ocean Motions Squirt which basically sends the water out of one of its 4 outputs (really is 1.5 of them but you get the point).  This allows for changing flow patterns in the tank.

The return hole in the middle of my tank (which by the way I would place a little bit higher if I were to redo this), is used by the return pump in my sump. You don't really need a return hole. A lot of people use over-the-side returns and/or a manifold. 


sniggir

and too ... well not realy add but I guess well agree.. a closed loop is realy a great way to maximize flow and keep you tank nice and clean... and you can cap all of your holes, if you do not plan on doing it right away but... you will have to drain your tank when you do decide to put in the plumbing.. not so hard if it is just overflows but with a cloosed loop... could meen draining the whole thing.

good advice on the drilling and placements
90 gallon/ 90 gallon sump all male show tank, 75g Accie, 75g masoni reef alonacara, yellow lab and trio of flame backs, 75 gal tawain reef, 75 gal bi500, red shoulder, blue regal,
40 gal breeder  F1 electric blue frierei, 25 gal sunshine peacock males awaiting females, 20 gallon trio albino pleco, 65gal neolamprongus Brachardi pulcher 2 30g fry grow out, 20g hatchery with 4 batches of eggs currently
Starting on a fish wall for breeding more coming soon!

dan2x38

Groupie02 great set-up and very good explaination. That is over the top... a sick set-up Pierre. Of course that is a SW set-up right? Be nice for a river set-up too. Gives me some great ideas... finally understand the whole CL thing. Thanks...

Does the 4-way for the CL output equalize the flow? Are those check valves on each line?
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

RossW

Quote from: groupie02 on May 02, 2008, 02:13:29 PM
When I drill a tank, the overflows normally go about 6" from the top and 6" from the side. I guess it also depends on the type of overflow you're going to use.

What do you do for overflow box, assuming you have them?  Just a typical top to bottom in each back corner?

Thanx,
Ross

groupie02

Quote from: dan2x38 on May 02, 2008, 05:21:33 PM
Groupie02 great set-up and very good explaination. That is over the top... a sick set-up Pierre. Of course that is a SW set-up right? Be nice for a river set-up too. Gives me some great ideas... finally understand the whole CL thing. Thanks...
yes, that's a salt water tank.

Quote
Does the 4-way for the CL output equalize the flow? Are those check valves on each line?
the 4 way is a rotating drum which lets the water flow from 1.5 of the 4 holes at any given time. It's a pretty cool device.  Those are actually true union valves to allow me to dismantle the whole setup for maintenance when required. With them, I can unscrew either end of the pipe without too much trouble.

groupie02

Quote from: RossW on May 02, 2008, 06:55:50 PM
What do you do for overflow box, assuming you have them?  Just a typical top to bottom in each back corner?

Thanx,
Ross


For the overflows, this is what I've been using.


It's made from ABS, first you have a 3" to 1.5" (I guess, I would have to check) pipe reducer, then a sweeping 90 degree elbow and then I have a little connector slip/thread that fits my 1.5" bulkhead.
I found all of the parts at my local hardware store.

dan2x38

Hope RossW doesn't mind my questions?

The 4 way is that electric or just run from the flow of the pump? So the rotation helps simulate a wave motion if I am following? Besides having 2 intakes in case of 1 clogging what other safety features are there to prevent overflows? What about power outages?
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

groupie02

the 4 way is powered by electricity. The pump was originally created for heart applications.
The trick is to change the flow in the tank. It's nowhere near random but it makes it varied enough to keep things happy.

When doing your plumbing, you remember that you will want to take it apart for cleaning once in a while. Put some valves and unions in line to allow for quick removal.

To prevent overflowing, you want to ensure that your sump has enough capacity for all of the water that would flow from your tank. You can use check valves but those tend to fail when you really need them. Some people use siphon breaks, small holes to let air flow inside your pipe and break the siphon.

Power outages, get a UPS or a generator  ;D


RossW

Quote from: groupie02 on May 04, 2008, 02:36:10 PM
It's made from ABS, first you have a 3" to 1.5" (I guess, I would have to check) pipe reducer, then a sweeping 90 degree elbow and then I have a little connector slip/thread that fits my 1.5" bulkhead.
I found all of the parts at my local hardware store.

How do you find these noise wise?

groupie02

The noise is not bad at all. On our upstairs tank, the skimmer makes way more noise than the overflow. When you first start it, it may be a little noisy but it doesn't take long to quiet down once the algae lines the pipes.

if you look at the picture of the back, you will notice 2 ABS pipes extending above the water level and covered with orange caps. Those caps have a small hole in them to allow for air to come in. This helps keep the noise down. I don't  have those on the upstairs tank but I don't have anywhere near as much flow in there.

For the tank in the pictures, I don't worry about the noise too much as it's behind a wall in the basement.

SuperT

Put your hands up this is a thread jacking!!!

Well not really, its probably related though. Hypothetically speaking (especially if my wife is reading this) that I wanted to put in a much larger tank (an eight footer) and I wanted to make it viewable on 3 sides (two long and one short) but wanted to include a closed loop.

Is this possible and how would I set up the plumbing and where would i drill.

Any links or pictures would help.

I'm still considering building into the wall and adding wave boxes but would like to see if this would be a cleaner look (oh hypothetically speaking of course)

Terry