DIY stand for my new 225 gal tank

[dan2x38]

I believe the yellow Teflon tape is gas fitters tape rather than plumbers.

Good to know I Goggled it you are right. It says not to use white on gas fittings. I guess the pink or yellow is better for gas fittings like CO2. It is heavier than white it would still work on a plumbing fittings. Actually here is a link: http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/plumbing/general/teflon.php

[alexv]

Good to know I Goggled it you are right. It says not to use white on gas fittings. I guess the pink or yellow is better for gas fittings like CO2. It is heavier than white it would still work on a plumbing fittings. Actually here is a link: http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/plumbing/general/teflon.php

Cool. Thanks for the info... So I suppose one should look for it in a store close to the gas equipment, not in plumbing... That's probably why I never saw it before...

Back to the topic... Here is a pic of tank's first inhabitants. I'm dying to put the first fish in, but this hobby is all about patience... Ammonia readings are still high, so need to wait a few days..



BTW, Happy New Year to everyone!

[dan2x38]

I guess I missed it your doing a fishless cycle?

[alexv]

I guess I missed it your doing a fishless cycle?

No, I will put a few fish in it, but the problem is that right now I have over 3 ppm ammonia in it. I don't want to put even the few fishes in until it goes down... I put a few seeded ponges from my other tank filters and a few plants to help deal with the ammonia (which is the result of neutralizing chloramines)... It shouldn't take long before I can put the fish in and really start to cycle the tank... And I think it won't be a long cycle with seeded filter media, plants, etc.

By the way, I will be looking for some plants. I guess I'll post a separate topic in classifieds shortly...

[pminister]

substrate heater cable...

gotta say i look forward for looking up this thread. tank is coming along great. just curious.........why did u install a substrate heating cable. isnt the hang on heater enough to heat the aquarium ?

[dan2x38]

No, I will put a few fish in it, but the problem is that right now I have over 3 ppm ammonia in it. I don't want to put even the few fishes in until it goes down... I put a few seeded ponges from my other tank filters and a few plants to help deal with the ammonia (which is the result of neutralizing chloramines)... It shouldn't take long before I can put the fish in and really start to cycle the tank... And I think it won't be a long cycle with seeded filter media, plants, etc.

By the way, I will be looking for some plants. I guess I'll post a separate topic in classifieds shortly...

Send me a PM if interested in some plants... there a few of us out here...

[alexv]

gotta say i look forward for looking up this thread. tank is coming along great. just curious.........why did u install a substrate heating cable. isnt the hang on heater enough to heat the aquarium ?

It's not really for heating up the water in the tank... I have a 1000W titanium heater in the sump for that

The idea is to keep the substrate a couple degrees above the temperature of the water. This will make water circulate through the substrate (since warmer water raises). This makes two things happen - eliminates anaerobic conditions and brings nutrients to the roots. At least this is a theory.

[dan2x38]

It's not really for heating up the water in the tank... I have a 1000W titanium heater in the sump for that

The idea is to keep the substrate a couple degrees above the temperature of the water. This will make water circulate through the substrate (since warmer water raises). This makes two things happen - eliminates anaerobic conditions and brings nutrients to the roots. At least this is a theory.

They are great my plants love them. Another bonus they also reduce the time my heaters are on and the cable is only 40w.

[alexv]

Today I finally put some first fish in the tank! Now it is officially occupied. It hosts three Tiger Barbs and a pair of Rosy Tetras. They will help cycle the tank and I also want to watch the barbs' behaviour before I put more fish in the tank. They were held alone in a 10 gal tank before and haven't seen any other water creature before...

Well, after I had put the barbs in and then added the tetras, they seemed not to care too much about them. I also added a few dozen cherry shrimp. That seemed to have raised some interest/apetite in the barbs though. However after eating some number of smaller shrimp they seem to have satisfied their hunger. And after a while they stopped even bothering the other shrimp. I hope that they eventually get accustomed to the shrimp and won't eat them (too much ). I also bet on the size of the tank and hopefully the plants that I'm going to put in will help protect the shrimp too (and more fish will keep the barbs more occupied/distracted).

Will see how it goes..

Now I need some plants to put in and I need them fast. I have noticed some green algae growing on the plants after only two days. A lot of light on an empty tank doesn't work too much... So far, I turned off some of the bulbs but I'd rather have more plants to compete with algae...

If you have some extra plants or you are planning your aqua-lawn maintenance soon, let me know. I have posted a list of plants I'd like to get here: http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=32949.0

[dan2x38]

Do you have your pressurized CO2 up & running?

[alexv]

Do you have your pressurized CO2 up & running?

No, not yet. Waiting for a pump (in the mail) and need to do some additional plumbing for it... But that should be done within a week.

[alexv]

Ok, the pump has arrived and I have finally finished the setup. I have connected a CO2 reactor and 36W UV sterilizer to the sump... It should help... Without CO2 and high light the water started to turn a bit green... Both sterilizer and CO2 injection will hopefully resolve the issue..

[alexv]

By the way, here is how the tank looks now:

[murgus]

Looks awesome!  Very jealous

Do you find the lights are too bright when you're sitting down - that's always made me go for a custom hood on the top.

murgus

[alexv]

Do you find the lights are too bright when you're sitting down - that's always made me go for a custom hood on the top.

No, not particularly. Some light does escape, but so far I'm not annoyed by this...

After a day of CO2 and ferts, the algal bloom has almost cleared... I'm still trying to tweak the CO2 rate, but so far I can't get it higher than approx 10 ppm... My tank is not covered yet, and the sump is covered just with a few pieces of acrylic... Will have to play with it and see if I can make the target of 30 ppm.

[dan2x38]

If you are using dry ferts be careful. Your plants are not established yet it takes awhile before they start up taking a lot of nutrients. If you are using or planning to use EI dosing start slow over a month or 2. I still think you will have an issue delivering the CO2 where your diffsuing it.

[pminister]

It's not really for heating up the water in the tank... I have a 1000W titanium heater in the sump for that

The idea is to keep the substrate a couple degrees above the temperature of the water. This will make water circulate through the substrate (since warmer water raises). This makes two things happen - eliminates anaerobic conditions and brings nutrients to the roots. At least this is a theory.

Would subsrtate heater be enough to raise the water temperature in the main tank, or is it something to you play around with both heaters to have a balanced yet a higher temp for the substrate at the same time as u mentioned. Hope that makes sense.

By the way what is an "anaerobic conditions", does that has something do with gases or minerals being locked into the substrate and not having to circulate

[alexv]

Would subsrtate heater be enough to raise the water temperature in the main tank, or is it something to you play around with both heaters to have a balanced yet a higher temp for the substrate at the same time as u mentioned. Hope that makes sense.

The 100W is a bit small for 200 gallon tank. On the package it says that if used as a main heater for the tank, it should be used on tanks up to 60 gallons or something like that.

I use the main 1000W heater in the sump for the water temperature. The 100W substrate heater just gives a bit of boost to the substrate to stay a bit warmer than the rest of the water. I use temperature sensors for both, so no playing around for the balance for me

By the way what is an "anaerobic conditions", does that has something do with gases or minerals being locked into the substrate and not having to circulate

Anaerobic = without the presence of oxygen. Basically stagnation of the substrate where the oxygen doesn't get to... In those areas, roots start to decay, etc.

[alexv]

Ok, an update...



The plants finally started to show some growth Still would have expected more growth from the stems than that, given the amount of light and fertilization... Can't still figure out what is out of balance here, but something clearly is... Some plants are doing OK (like Hornwort - had to cut it down twice already because it reached the surface and started to pile up at the top shading the bottom).

Still having algae problems though. Not as much as in the beginning, but most older leaves are still completely covered with dark brown layer of algae. Newer leaves are not as affected but still notice a thin layer of brown film forming on them.

Blyxa japonica's new leaves aren't green at all. More pale brownish color... Some new leaves of vallisneria are also quite transparent and almost colorless...

Not sure what is missing... I'm dosing dry ferts on the following schedule: Mon, Wed, Fri: NPK; Tue, Thu, Sat: Trace

NPK (1 dose - 3x a week):
KH2PO4 - 1 tsp (10g)
KNO3 - 3 tsp (36g)
MgSO4 - 3 tsp (25g)
K2SO4 - 1 tsp (11g)

Trace (1 dose - 3x a week):
Chelated trace mix from B&B Hydroponics - 1 tsp (5g)

CO2 is at about 20 ppm (my water KH is about 4°dGH and I'm trying to keep it at about 6.7-6.8 pH).

Had to play a bit with CO2 to minimize outgassing from the sump. Had to throttle down the pump a bit to reduce the current, added a tight lid to the sump and changed the return pipe (main tank->sump) configuration in the sump (horizontal along the water level vs the old vertical straight down).

With the total volume of about 800L of the system (~200-220 gal) I guess the fert levels are OK. I'm also running a 1 gph drip waterchange system which replaces about 170 gal weekly, so that's ~80% weekly water changes but constantly (not at one shot), so I guess some more fertilizers go down the drain than with the conventional water change method...

Anyway, I will watch how everything goes and see if any other adjustments are needed...

[dan2x38]

Plants when first transplanted suffer root shock. This can take weeks to over come. Clippings need to have time to root. This being said the ferts you are adding are not being used by the plants totally yet. I would back off on 3 doses a week. To start do one dose for 2 weeks, 2 doses for 2 weeks, and then if seeing good plant growth ramped up to 3. Even still using EA I do not always use the 3rd dose. I check the plants first to see if any algae staring to show.

The brown algae sounds like diatoms. These are very common in new set-ups. As things become balanced they usually go away. But they are also caused by to much phosphate and not enough nitrate.

Sorry to say but I think you are going to continue CO2 issues trying to diffuse it into the sump. I'd consider using a 'Y' joint in the return line connect the CO2 diffuser to it. Connect the 'Y' upside down /\  this will prevent the water pushing into the joint and the bypass water will suck up the input from the diffuser. I'd also use a check valve on the connection preventing back pressure.

Your CO2 should be at 30ppm. EI dosing is intended for tanks with heavy growth. I would do min. dosing until you have substantial growth.