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New tank setup advice

Started by OttawaReefer, September 21, 2009, 11:18:47 AM

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OttawaReefer

I'm looking at setting up a 90G tank into a reef setup and am wondering if I can get some advice/input on what I am looking at.

For lighting I am looking at the 48" AquaticLife MH combo hood (2x150W MH, 2T5 actinic, LEDs).  It seems like a great hood as you can move the MH bulbs to spotlight certain areas and it has a built-in timer for all three lighting options.  We don't really plan on having any SPS corals, and if we had a couple they should be fine up high on the live rock.

I can fit a 20G long under the stand for a sump.  I just need to find out where I can get the bit to drill the tank.  I've checked all over Orleans and can't find a store that carries them.  The maximum clearance I can get under the stand for a skimmer is 25".  I've been warned away from Coralife, but would love some suggestions for a good skimmer that could fit in a space under 25".

If there's anyone in Orleans, have they found that using RO/DI water is a *must*?  I did a phosphate test on my tapwater and found it measured out a zero.  When I used to run the 90G as a freshwater tank I used to have to add some elements to the water for plants/inverts as the water was incredibly soft.


Vincenzo.

sounds fine for what u want. Id go w/ 2 250w mh with 4 t5 or 400wmh with t5's. If u ever want sps in future (& u will) ull have the lights.

for a skimmer what is your price range?

Blast the tank with flow. Lots.

Dont matter what ur test said, u have to use ro/di or expext algae and deaths.

For a glass bit - can tire, rona, home depot.

OttawaReefer

#2
I checked with Canadian Tire/Home Depot/Rona and none carry a bit large enough to drill through for a bulhead.

I was looking at around 300 for a skimmer.  Up or down a bit doesn't matter too much but I don't want to go crazy high either.

I have a small under the counter RO unit in the kitchen.  Would it be possible to replace it with a RO/DI unit mean for the aquarium?  That way I could dual-use it for the tank and drinking water.  How much waste water should I expect from these systems?

[EDIT] How important is the DI portion of the unit?  [/EDIT]

mikerobart

#3
I have a 90g recently set up, running 2x250w and it's definitely the way to go would not want to go less with lights.. also I am running a skimmer in your price range.. the swc extreme 200 (same as octo or msx.. got it about $350 incl tax AND shipping from manitoba based swc but local sponsors also carry it.)

Vertex line also great in that price range, local sponsors carry it as well.

My system is still young and I am not as experienced as many here in the hobby but feel free to pm about specific questions or if you wanted to see the system, see if you like bulb colours, skimmer, etc etc...

wrt ro/di... probably best to bite the bullet and get one... when you are talking about the amount of money you will spend on corals etc.. you don't want to cut any corners especially with the initial fill

lot's get by without but you'll kick yourself later if you run into water quality issues

Hookup

Sounds like you're well on your way!

Looks like you've gotten some good info so far, nothing really to ad...

We all look forward to seeing your progress & photos!

greddy

You could try calling Lee Valley tools, as I think they have the glass drill bits you may need. Also I would recommend using DI with you RO system, you can buy a DI unit and add it to an existing RO system. Check out some of the vertical DI units as they are superior to the horizontal ones

JD

Here is another avenue for glass drill bits/bulkheads.

http://www.glass-holes.com/

A friend is running a 90g with 20k XM SE halides.
I have seen it with 250's and 400's same bulbs, I liked the 250's best. Not too much in your face.

OttawaReefer

So, twin 250s are the way to go?    How about T5s?  Is there anyway for those to work on a 90G? 

I've had both the 150s and 250s recommended.  I thought I could get by with the 150s. 

Are there any brands that I should stay away from for equipment?  As for salt, I got a big bucket of instant ocean reef salt. 

bongo

any temperature issue with 2 250W over a 90g?

I have 2 150w and my temperature is very stable and evaporation is acceptable

mikerobart

#9
IMO the absolute best would be twin 250w supplemented by 2-4 54w t5's.

That way you can have a sweet dawn and dusk , and also tweak the spectrum without having to spend huge $$ on MH bulbs.

150w bulbs will probably limit you in terms of type of coral you can keep / placement in a 24" deep tank

best to prepare for the future WHEN not IF you want sps / clams!

You will not have heat issues with an open top (which is my preference..  modern look, temperature control)... but can be more expensive in terms of lighting because you'll be looking at combo fixtures that can be big $$.

Then again you definitely don't NEED the t5's in addition to the MH, and can always run only t5 it's a completely viable option with individual reflectors. An 8 bulb tek or maybe a 6 or 8 bulb sun-power would be fantastic. You lose the shimmer effect but gain some really cool colour options.

To be more specific about temperature... I have my fixture about 9" off the water in a pretty small room... Ambient temp is say 70F. With the door of the room open, and a fan blowing over the fixture / water surface the tank will go from about 78.5 to mid to a max of about 82.... but usually I can keep it under 81.5 .

If you do a canopy which gives you a lot more freedom for diy options (don't have to worry about how it looks in the canopy).. you will NEED good fans to vent it or you will have temp problems.

You can really save a ton of money by keeping your eye on the classifieds... pretty easy to find reflectors and ballasts or fixtures for reasonable prices if you are patient. Then just hang from roof or build a hanging system (a steel light bar like I did, or a bracket into wall etc.) and voila lighting done.

Personally I am in love with the Phoenix 14k bulb but I'm still working out a way to add some t5's to my system for some more flexibility. The only reason I didn't go all t5 was shimmer, and that a good deal on a fixture came up in classifieds.

bongo

simply want to put more emphasis on the importance of having good flow

I have a 90g and had 4 mj1200 and 3 of them were on a wavemaker... not enough flow, deposits were showing on rocks and some corals were closed

I added 2 korelia's 4 and took out the one mj1200 which was not on the wavemaker... that gave me nice flow at a very reasonable price and the tank looks way better

mikerobart

I agree, flow is as big if not more of a concern than lighting. Bongo are you full sps in the 90g?  I have only 2 k3's and my return pump maybe a total of 2500 gph in my 90 and have to be super careful placing lps or they get too much. SPS I put right in front of the pumps pretty much and they love it.

bongo

a mix of both sps and lps

I find that 3 diy modded mj1200 on a wavemaker plus 2 k4 provide very good flow if well placed in my 90g

the k4 provide constant flow in a circular patern and the modded mj1200 placed on both sides and back side provide the eratic flow I was looking for

I don't count the flow from my return pump since I leave the nossle close to the surface to prevent overflow in the sump

mikerobart

I have a mix as well. I guess the way the rock work is can also play a big role... my return pump has loc-line to nozzles that kind of like two small powerheads. I may add a third k3 eventually depending on need.

bongo

do you suspend those 2 250w mh?

I was simply not prepared to have my light fixture illuminate my entire living room so I wanted them as close as possible to the tank... this is why I prefered the 2 150w mh... and the price difference too :)

mikerobart

It's an aquamedic aquaspacelight I actually bought used here. I do suspend it, made a light bar from electrical conduit which is bolded on the back of stand with clamps. Pics here in my build thread (which is in desperate need of an update!)
http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=37769.0... a few of those pics would show the light spill... although the light is lower now than it is in some of the pics.. and of course I've since lots more coral and other goodies.  ;D

Vincenzo.

sorry that we hijacked this thread.....but u 2 talking about 2 much flow and sps. Its prooven they grow better under crazy flow. Their polys extend more. And the pieces that break off is natural jus like the ocean, its just propogating and you'll have more. I have my sps right infront of my koralia. Its personal preferance really.

mikerobart

Vince I was talking about too much for lps.. my sps are also right in front of my k3's ( a few inches, and dead center where the flow is strongest) and they love it. Now my issue even with only maybe 30x turnover in my 90g is finding spots for my lps that they will not get too much flow, and close up. As an example, my torch polyps were getting too much flow even on the bottom, but after changing the direction of one of the ph's the extension is much better. I am no expert but I agree with you that it's hard to have TOO MUCH for sps.

bongo

I have xenia in my tank and it's pulsing good... so I recommend 2 k4 and 3 mj1200 for a 90g

cheap and good flow

mikerobart

Yeah I find xenia does great so long as it's not getting blasted straight on.

Bongo do you hide those powerheads behind rocks etc ? One reason I went with k3's was because of the size... powerheads are already a bit obtrusive and the k4 is pretty beefy. Maybe I can save up for an mp40 and be done with it  :D.

To the op... sorry for thread hijacking! Hopefully our advice will help