Filter media layers

[mkowals2]

I recently read a few threads about carbon in filters stating not to use it unless there is a specific reason for it, and that it's good to remove it after it is no longer needed (i.e. after using it to remove excess medication). So I decided to take the carbon layer out of my Aquaclear 30 on my 10 gal tank, and now I'm wondering what I should replace it with to achieve better bio filtration. I know that both the sponges and the porous ceramic bits provide huge surface area for bacteria, but the sponges also add extra mechanical filtration. What's your opinion on which one I should replace the carbon layer with? Any advice or experiences you can share will be much appreciated.

Thanks very much and have a good week,

-Mike

[magnosis]

This might not be as helpful as adding to the question.

I started with a Fluval 305, top to bottom (all media that shipped with the canister filter):
- carbon
- ceramic rings & carbon
- 2x ceramic rings

It was working good. Water was clear, tank got cycled, parameters were near perfect.

6 weeks after I decided to remove the carbon as per many suggestions here that carbon shouldn't be used unless specifically needed + the Fluval recommendation to clean it up monthly.

What I did wasn't great.
I removed the carbon bags that was bundled with the filter, but replaced them with ZeroCarb (as strongly advised by BigAl's staff).

1 week after this, my water has turned brown   Plus I forgot to rinse the ZeroCarb so upon restarting the filter, a huge white cloud was spit out into the tank.

Today I picked up some Fluval Polishing Floss and Fluval Prefilter Media (looks like ceramic rings but smaller).  I will take out all carbon/zero carb.

Advise appreciated where applicable

[Nerine]

I have ceramic rings, a few different density of sponges, 100% polyester fiberfill...I think I have 2 different sponges right now? cant remember LOL my brain is fried from 3 days no sleep. but I dont use carbon unless treating with medication! I haven't purchased carbon in about 3 or 4 years now...have a small stash on hand for emergencies and it saves a LOT of money. i havent purchased ceramic rings in about 6 years or more...I had a big box and just replace the ones that crumble...they last a long time!

[fischkopp]

The best value for the bug bio media are sponges. Ceramic/sintered glass based porous filter media provide higher surface area, but will be (much) more expensive. I use both in aquaclears, and nothing else.

[mkowals2]

Awesome, I was sort of leaning towards sponges just because the bags that the ceramic rings come in dissolve in a couple weeks and then filter maintenance becomes a real chore...

One other question though. I have a Fluval U2 internal filter in my 33g (which I'm not too fond of to say the least...) and it comes with these proprietary filter media cartridges as I'm sure most of you are aware of. The problem is the cartridges the water contacts first, have the sponge/floss stuff AND the carbon inside them! I don't want the carbon layers anymore because I'm pretty sure it's taking some of the stuff in the Flourish I add, out of the water (please correct me if I'm wrong though), so I thought I would just get two more of the bio cartridges and put them in the there but then I would end up with no mechanical filtration... If anyone has every rigged one of these things to have better mechanical/bio filtration so I can stop buying these proprietary cartridges, I would really appreciate the help!

Have a good one,

-Mike

[Fishnut]

Yeah those filter cartridges are junk.  I layer mine like I used to layer my aqua clears, so I'll tell you how I layer both.

Aqua Clear:

Bottom of the basket - 1 layer of filter wool (available in rolls)

Middle - Aqua Clear Sponge

Top - nylon stocking full of porous ceramic beads (they're actually sold for ehiem)

The piece of wool is to catch all the chunks so that the sponge and the beads can grow tones of bacteria without getting too clogged.  I toss the wool and replace it with a new piece when I do my filter maintenance because the sponge and beads have loads of bacteria.

Fluval:

Bottom of the canister - a ball of the filter wool

Top (next to the filter top) - an aqua clear sponge or a nylon stocking full of bio beads

Again, I toss the filter wool when it gets clogged.

[mkowals2]

I will probably use that same layering idea for my Aquaclear but my internal filter doesn't have layers the way most canisters do. This - http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/243650/product.web - is the underwater Fluval filter I have which layers the media from left to right instead of bottom to top, with an intake on each side and then the outtake on the front. The filter cartridges are loaded in from the top and look similar to this - http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/243657/product.web - with the carbon on one side of the cartridge and the floss on the other... so I can't figure out how to get just the floss layers and then the bio media sandwiched in between the two.

But thanks for the advice on the HOB, at least I have that one figured out

-Mike

[Soeman]

I've got a penguin filter, whose proprietary filters have a similar design. Fortunately with the penguin/emperor filters the biofiltration is provided by the biowheel, so I can pretty much do what I want in terms of mechanical/chemical filtration. In my case, I just replaced the filter with a giant sponge which i rinse out every water change, and change when it starts falling apart/gets too clogged.

The other alternative is to take an exacto blade and cut out the carbon filter pad. I tried this with the penguin filters, but it works terribly since I've got to cut the filter side open to shake the carbon granules out, and I found the filter lasted about 1/2 as long as it normally would. From the looks of your filters however, it seems that the carbon is a separate pad on the other side of the mechanical filter, so might be more of an option.

There are also 'sheets' of filter material available at some aquatic stores, would it be possible to just cut some to size and slide them in?

[Bees]

I have a Fluval U2 and it runs fine without the carbon filter inserts.  In fact I think it works better because the inserts are pretty dense so not a lot of large particle matter made it through in the original configuration.  The next filter layer of plain sponge does a better job of removing plant matter, etc from the water.  I also tried removing the carbon inserts and using a little polyester filter floss on the outer edge, then the standard sponge inserts in the plastic case and then the ceramic media in the middle with a bit more filter floss interlaced.

Without the carbon inserts the water flow is less restricted.  That leads to more water movement in the tank which compared to HOBs is the big selling point of this filter anyway.  I use it in conjunction with a cannister filter though.  No lazy fish in my tank!

[washefuzzy]

I've got a penguin filter, whose proprietary filters have a similar design. Fortunately with the penguin/emperor filters the biofiltration is provided by the biowheel,

Do you have any trouble with your biowheel? My kept stopping. Does this just mean my biowheel was getting old.

I took the old stuff and the carbon off the plastic insert, sewed on a wad of floss when it got dirty. Behind that I would slide in sponge and sometimes a plastic scrubby from the dollar store if there was room.

[mkowals2]

Wow thanks very much for all the responses everyone! I think based on my filter design the best option I can go with is to find a longer piece of filter sponge and then just cut it to size and jam it in there, forgetting about their little blue cartridges all together. I don't see why it shouldn't work and it will really cut down on the cost of buying those cartridges.

Thanks again for all your help!

-Mike

[Soeman]

Do you have any trouble with your biowheel? My kept stopping. Does this just mean my biowheel was getting old.

There are few reasons why your biowheel would stop spinning, and is almost never because the material itself is clogged - unless it's oozing with slime. The top 2 reasons why my wheel would stop spinning occasionally is 1) I set the wheel in wrong 2) not enough water flow because the filter material is clogged and the water is flowing out the overflow (where the intake tube swings over).

One other conceivable reason why your wheel would have trouble spinning would be if the bearings get grimey. Be careful in cleaning them, there's small pieces that are easy to lose. Pop the wheel off it's brace, the bearings are usually small blue caps that slide right off the shaft. Clean them off, reassemble.

Hope that helps

[washefuzzy]

Thanks for the hints Soeman!