Manual Interupt Timer?

[dan2x38]

Does anyone know of a reverse type timer? You would press a button that turns off the power source then after a set time it turns back on.

I have a switch that plugs into my power bar. In that I plug my return pump so during feeding I can turn off the return. The issue is I am forgettful and have noticed later it was still off. A timer like above would be the perfect answer to my forgetfulness.

[RossW]

All of the controllers that I know of have this functionality.  Not a $5 device though 

[dan2x38]

Yeah I am looking for a unit approx. $20 range +/-. Have some links though?

[karjean]

If you are handy, could you try a digital wall switch timer! the could do the job you are looking for.

[dan2x38]

Oh like the ones for say a sun lamp? Those are for turning on for period not off.

[Saltcreep]

Oh like the ones for say a sun lamp? Those are for turning on for period not off.

Those fan/lamp timers will work just fine - with one addition; check out this thread from a couple of years ago.

http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=27710.msg184056#msg184056

[dan2x38]

Those fan/lamp timers will work just fine - with one addition; check out this thread from a couple of years ago.

http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=27710.msg184056#msg184056

Thanks for the thread link. Do you have any pictures. Pictures are worth a 1000 words. I do the work but takes me forever to figure out the instructions but a diagram really helps... Guess I am not the sharpest tool in the shed.

[Saltcreep]

Thanks for the thread link. Do you have any pictures. Pictures are worth a 1000 words. I do the work but takes me forever to figure out the instructions but a diagram really helps... Guess I am not the sharpest tool in the shed.

Sorry, no pics, but maybe I can explain it a little better. It truly is very simple. First, the parts - If I were starting from scratch, I think I would go with a three-gang renovator electrical box to house the whole thing. One of the three sections for the fan switch, the second just a place to put the relay and the third for a duplex receptacle. If you go with a Decora cover plate and receptacle you should be able to find a three-gang combination that will work. Next you need the fan switch, the duplex receptacle (GFCI maybe) and the relay. The big thing with the relay is to make sure that it has a normally closed or 'NC' position, that the relay coil itself is 120 VAC plus that the relay contact points and circuitry can handle the load of your pumps, etc. Many, if not most, relays come with various NC and NO (normally open) combinations. All you need to do is select the wiring points for the NC circuit according to the diagram usually printed on the relay. Now to the wiring - You will need to bring power from somewhere into the box. You could use some good extension type cord, properly clamped into the box and a cord end, or hard-wire it directly to your house circuit with Romex if that's possible in your installation. You want to take the line in and create two branches; one to supply power to one side of the fan switch and the other to supply power to the NC circuit of the relay which will ultimately supply power to the duplex. Install the fan switch first so that it completes the circuit on the black wire to the relay coil when turned. Now connect the black wire from the other branch you created to one of the 'normally closed' wiring lugs on the relay. The other lug on the NC circuit is connected to the brass screw connection on your duplex using a piece of black wire. For the neutral or 'white' side, all the white wires are basically, connected together. For this installation, you should have two to deal with; the white wire coming in which is branched to the other side of the relay coil, and another white wire running to the silver screw connection on the duplex. Wire-to-wire connections are all made with twist-on wire connectors. Last thing to deal with is the bare copper ground wire from the wire coming into the box. It only needs to be connected to the grounding lug on the renovator box (or the grounding screw if you go with a metal box) and to the green grounding screw on the duplex. Both the fan switch and the NC circuit use only the black, or 'hot' wires. The relay itself and/or the fan switch may have a grounding terminal or wire. These should be connected to the other grounds. Now, mount the fan switch and the the duplex into the box using the screws they came with. I would put the relay in the middle section, maybe fastened with some Velcro tape or something. Screw on the cover plate and you should be good-to-go. When the power source to your little box is turned on, power will flow through the 'NC' circuit because it is in its normal position, closed. When you set the fan switch, it supplies power to the relay coil which changes the position of the relay contacts from its NC or closed position to 'open' which breaks the circuit to the duplex outlet. When the fan time runs out, the power to the relay coil is cut which returns the NC relay circuit back to closed, its normal state, which turns everything back on. You could easily make it so only one half of your outlet was switched too. Just twist off the tab connecting the two brass coloured screws on the duplex and run a separate black wire from the source to the unused brass screw on the duplex.

I'm not good at diagrams but I'll see if I can come up with something for that all-important visual aid.

[dan2x38]

Thanks I will try to diagram it see if I understand the process. This weekend left the damn pump off for  hrs again before I noticed it... D'OH... 

[JetJumper]

Time for a reefkeeper

[Quatro]

Hey Dan,

here is a really simple ideal.  Buy a manual timer like http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/Lighting/ElectricalTimers/PRDOVR~0528823P/Heavy-Duty%252BGrounded%252BTimer.jsp?locale=en

The green pegs turn it on, the red ones turn it off.  Remove all the red ones, buy 24 of the green pegs (hopefully you can find them) and set them at every hour.  You manually turn it off and within 1 hour it turns back on.

Mike S

[Saltcreep]

Hey Dan,

here is a really simple ideal.  Buy a manual timer like http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/Lighting/ElectricalTimers/PRDOVR~0528823P/Heavy-Duty%252BGrounded%252BTimer.jsp?locale=en

The green pegs turn it on, the red ones turn it off.  Remove all the red ones, buy 24 of the green pegs (hopefully you can find them) and set them at every hour.  You manually turn it off and within 1 hour it turns back on.

Mike S

Another good idea if you could find the little trippers (at a reasonable price). The only concern I would have with that system is, depending on the ambient temperature in the fishroom, an hour off might be long enough to allow a swing in display tank temperature if your heater was in the sump or fuge without circulation. I just had a look at one of my timers and it times down to thirty minutes. Of course, then you would need 48 trippers. Other than that, sounds like a simple solution.

[dan2x38]

Could use the Marineland timer they are every 10 minutes and need no extra tabs there built in - http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=21102 This would change the flow too varying it. Not 100% sure I like the return off an on or off period but until I get a RKL this is doable I have one in a box somewhere - I think?

[karjean]

Could use the Marineland timer they are every 10 minutes and need no extra tabs there built in - http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=21102 This would change the flow too varying it. Not 100% sure I like the return off an on or off period but until I get a RKL this is doable I have one in a box somewhere - I think?

This one could do the trick, or you could go with this one.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/Lighting/ElectricalTimers/PRD~0528817P/Noma%252BProgrammable%252BTimer.jsp?locale=en
only program the 20- "ON" sequence and forget the "off" sequence.

[JetJumper]

So I think I will be building something like this soon.  I turned my main pump off for feeding.  Forgot to turn it back on.  Well my heater has a remote probe that is in the display and the heater in the sump.  Can you guess the outcome?  I nuked my Fuge.  Only some snails in there and a big sepent star, so not a huge loss, but now I have to wait for the sump to come down from god knows what temp (300watt heater on for 1 full day in about 25g of water... )

Oh boy..Snails are still moving! haha

[RossW]

What is the benefit of this... assuming you have sufficient turn over in your tank/sump?

my heater has a remote probe that is in the display and the heater in the sump

[JetJumper]

I have about 700gph turn over in the display.  Wiring wise it worked out a lot easier to have the probe / controller where it is and the heater down below.    But all will be changing soon.  I am adding another 75Gallons of water to the system which will cause a complete rebuild.  Plus I am changing the floor in the room the tanks are in from carpet to hardwood.  So thats the time waiting bit to do the setup.  Once I buy the wood for the floor, The tanks move around.