Gerryo's 90 G

[gerryo]

Started August 25, 2011.

I went out today and got the first pieces of wood for the stand framing.  The plan I am using is from Reef Central, and was introduced to me by Rybren (Jerry) on this site.  The parameters for this stand are totally variable, depending on the size of your tank, but I feel that they are completely strong and safe.

I am making some changes to the plan, but these will actually make it stronger.  My reasons for the changes are because I am old and need the tank to be up a little higher so that it is easier to work on.
The first change is to the base frame.  Their frame uses 2x6's around the outside.  Mine will use 2x8's to get the bottom of the sump further from the floor. lol
My stand will be 6 feet by 2 feet, but I will be using a 4 foot tank only.  The reason for this is that I am always putting things along in front of my present tank and need this space made available because I am lazy.  This will also give me more space around the sump for all the junk that we collect in here.  Like reactors, pumps, filters, lights,  fuges, etc.---you know what I mean.

Using pine 2x's along with decking screws to hold it all together.

I'll see if I can get a copy of the plan and scan it for an attachment.

[gerryo]

I think it would be better if I just gave you the link to the site for the stand plans.  The print is so small you would not be able to read a scanned copy.

the link is ;   http//reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110

[gerryo]

Important question.

How high should the stand be?

My corner tank stand is 36 inches high.  But with the tank being only 21 inches, means that the top 4 - 5 inches are out of sight when I stand close to the tank. 

The 90g tanks are 24 inches and would be easier to see when up close.  If I make the stand much higher, it will be difficult to work in the tank to clean it, etc.  Since I am a short person, I need to use a step stool to work on my tank now.

I suppose this should answer my question, but what are your opinions?

[JetJumper]

I have had both tall and short stands.  Personally I like a shorter stand so that A) If I am sitting in the same room as the tank I can see it from a decent level. and B) like you said working in the tank is a pain the higher up it is.  My latest one for my 120G tank is just tall enough so that I can reach into the tank and be able to arrange stuff on the bottom sand bed. 

[gerryo]

This is the completed frame for the new stand.  Materials and dimensions as follows.

Bottom frame ;   2 x 8 pine
Legs               ;   2 x 4 pine
Top frame      ;    2 x 6 pine
Cross bracing ;   2 x 6 pine
Screws           ;   3 inch deck screws, 2 1/2 inch deck screws

Final dimensions are 23 1/2 inches (It was supposed to be 24, I don't know what happened) deep by 6 feet long by 3 feet high.  I decided on the three feet height because I need to be able to reach the bottom of the tank.  (Just as Jetjumper said, and I am fairly short).  It is VERY heavy but I was able to move it sufficiently to do the building.  Next will be the sump floor and the top sheets of plywood.  I think maybe I will do a couple coats of primer to help seal the thing first.

[gerryo]

Before I go any further with this stand, does anyone think that all the wood joints should be glued as well as screwed?

My major reason to not put glue in would be that someday (in the not too distant future) I might have to move and it would be much easier if this could be taken apart.

A good reason to put glue in is that it would be much stronger and the end grain on some pieces would be better sealed.

I am going to build this stand so that the outer skin can be removed.  This will definately make it easier to move.

[Yams]

I just made a 90gal stand almost identical to yours. Just used 2x6's vice 2x8's on the bottom (same as top)

You most certainly do not need to glue anything, its almost build like a battleship the way you have it set up. If you put sides on it, which would further add to the structural integrity, (Prevent the 2x4's from bowing over the period of 20 years, lol) you dont need to do anyting further than maybe add some waterproof paint to the inside so when evaporation happens it won't ruin your stand. I wouldnt glue it,waste of time and resources for an already heavily overbuilt stand.

[gerryo]

Sounds good to me.  Thanx Yams.  Save me taking it all apart again.

The amount of space I have in the sump area is phenomenal.  I will probably use the Aqueon ready made sump, and use a separate tank for a fuge, with one of my old Fluval filters as a Carbon Reactor, and to move water from the sump to the fuge.

But not tonight.  It's been a long day.     

[gerryo]

Sitting looking at this thing and splashing on a coat of primer got me thinking.

People usually install a fan or two into the stand to get rid of moisture.  Why not just leave the back open and let the evap. exit on it's own.  Would save electricity, and if you put a couple extra legs in there with a cross brace then the structural integrity would not be challenged.

Any other opinions on this?

[JetJumper]

The reason I closed in my system was for noise levels from the pumps in the sump area.  I have a total of 3 fans under there, however I think I am down to 2 functional ones because one was too close and the salt destroyed it.

[bt]

I considered an open back to the stand.... didn't want to find a cat in the sump.

[Yams]

I have 1/8th of each corner covered, rest open for structural support. So... open back, but a plywood strip covering the 2x4 uprights and a little bit more, but rest open.

So... its up to you, but when it gets hot in your sump, be alot easier to cool with a open back.

Check this pro-con list I saw when I was looking into that...

Open
P - Less work to build & finish the back wall
P - More room to "sneak" extra space if I ever needed it.
P - Don't have to worry about it getting too damp under there and molding

C - Noise of equipment will be louder with open back
C - Light from Fuge will light up the room at night (may get annoying)
C - Unsightly because of trafic that goes by and could see equipment, etc.

Closed
P - Less ambient Equiptment noise
P - No excess light from fuge at night (for when I want to watch movies @ night, makeout parties etc.)
P - Cleaner Looking

C - Takes a bit more to finish back side wall (cost & time)
C - Have to put in several access holes for wires/pipes/etc.
C - Possible mold issues from dampness
C - Finite limit to the space enclosed for any equiptment

[gerryo]

Thanx for the opinions, Guys.

And Yams, thanx for the pros & cons.  Nice neat package.

I think I will leave the back open with a couple extra legs in there.  The night light will not bother me as this will be in the basement, away from the tv and living room.

As for the noise, my return pump is called "The Quiet One" so shouldn't be a problem.  Any other pumps are smaller and should be much quieter.

Besides, I am Legally deaf, so don't hear everything, as many of you will already have noticed.  See, old age has it's merits.

[NjOyRiD]

the water blaster has no sound at all; and I use a 750 g/ph

[Rybren]

Gerry,

Nice work on the stand.

Let me know when you're ready for some frags.

[gerryo]

Thanx Jerry.  Good to see you.

I will not be needing frags for this tank for quite a long time.  I have to take it slow and easy with this one.  Both financial constraints and health problems dictate the need to slow down.  I'll get the tank sometime this winter. 

I have been populating my other tanks lately.  The 5.5g will look real good when some of this grows in a bit.  Got some nice stuff from JetJumper and now can't decide whether to leave them in the Pico or to move them to the Nano.  The Nano seems more stable but the Pico needs colour as well.

[gerryo]

Hi.

I finally got the top and floor into this stand along with 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint on everything.

I used 5/8 in. pressure treated ply for the top and floor as I figure these would be the most likely to get wet.

The next step will be trying to do the skinning of the stand.  I'm thinking of pine overall, but you can't get pine plywood.  Maybe I'll cheat and use 1/4 in. fir on the ends, pine doors and front pieces, then heavy crown mouldings top and bottom.

I'm not sure what to do about a light hood.  I guess pine with the same crowns would look the best, but would be quite heavy.

I built this thing at 6 feet long because I have the space, but I also realize that it could handle a 6 foot tank.  NO, gerry, don't go there.  YET.

[Rybren]

Looking good Gerry.

[Stussi613]

I'm thinking of pine overall, but you can't get pine plywood. 

You sure can get pine plywood.  It's usually veneered, but since you're just skinning it should work well.

Quick drive to Manotick should fix you up. I'd call first to get pricing...then bring just enough money to get what you want and leave the plastic at home.  It's almost as easy to spend money here as it is at Pro Hockey Life.

http://www.wood-source.com/

[gerryo]

I stand corrected.  Thank you.  I do remember seeing even some part sheets the last time I was there.

I'll take a drive.