New Rimless Build

[ataller]

Tank is 48x30x18, basement sump.

More to come...






Adam

[Achilles]

Very clean set up. Very nice so far. What kind of lighting fixture is that?. Can't wait see the rockscape and live stock.

[ataller]

Filling with RODI as we speak.

Light is an 8 bulb 4 foot Sfiligoi Stealth T5 Fixture. Actively cooled. Similar to the ATI. Glass shield instead of plastic which is nice. I believe the ATI produces better par, purchased this light from another reefer for a great price though.

External overflow, only drilled for 2 bulkheads, each 2". Going to try and setup herbie style drain, which utilizes a siphon and a backup. I do not have three holes for a proper beananimal.

[xenon]

I love the dimensions of the tank!

I am looking forward to your updates.

[ataller]

I love the dimensions of the tank!

I am looking forward to your updates.

Thanks, I was tired of getting my shoulder wet reaching the bottom of my last tank. 18" should be a breeze.

[redbelly]

Very clean.
Very nice.

Is that electrical conduit for the light hanger?

Any pics of the basement sump.

[DrReefer]

Any pics of the basement sump.

+1 for the basement sump pics

[ataller]

LR is in, so are the fish I had in the basement, with a couple corals that I had left. All of my SPS died, ah well, means I am in the market for frags again.

Basement is a mess right now. Once everything clears up in the tank, and once I clean up the basement a bit I will post some pictures.

Redbelly,  I think it is electrical conduit yes, I had it left over from my old tank, I am not exactly sure what it is. I painted it with Killz. It is metal... you would think it wouldn't hold up the light, but it held up the 3 250watt MH fixture which was just as heavy for years.

Adam

[ataller]

BTW, the herbie overflow, (beananimal without the open drain) is 100% silent, and was relatively easy to dial in, just took about 20 trips down to the basement and back to adjust and then see what was going on.

I had some trouble with the siphon restarting, cut my siphon so that it was only about 1/2" under the water, problem solved.

[redbelly]

I have seen electrical conduit used before, but one solid piece bent at 90 degrees.

Here is a pic from Matts tank where he used 1/2" conduit.




I was thinking of doing either this design or your design for a radion on a nano i just built.
Thanks for posting the pics!

[ataller]

I probably would have bent something like Matt did if I had any talent/skill/equipment.


Buying two brackets and a prefab 90 was easier for me, though probably uglier.

Btw Pat I PM'd you, one of my MP40s needs a repair.

Speaking of repair, that is the third thing so far... My Apex display unit's backlight broke, and my bubble blaster pump for my SRO3000 needed to be sent back.

[redbelly]

Yeah, Matt worked as an electrician so he had the tools.
Plus bunding 1/2" would me MUCH easier that 1" I would think.

The 1/2" did sag a bit under the weight of the poermodule as they are rather heavy.
If you do decide to bend one down the road, bend it a few degrees under 90 and the weight will pull it down.


pm sent.

[ataller]

First here is an update on the display. As you can see I have very few corals left.

I am quite proud of my screen top, I fit it exactly to fit inside the frame, as to not disurb the rimless look of the tank as much as possible. This frame will be crucial as I plan on having this tank mostly stocked with docile wrasses that like to jump.

Excuse the blue photos, only my evening blue+ T5s were on.






Screen Top

[ataller]

Here is some more info about the sump.

First here is an overview.

Garbage pail holds RODI that is automatically topped off from my filter via a float valve. Just in case the float valve fails there is a bulkhead and drain leading to my sump pump.



Here are my reactors. They are plumbed off the return (which is an old Reeflo Wahoo that has not let me down in 3 years of 24 hour a day pumping). Manifold is 3/4" that leads to 1/2" gate valves. I would like to hard plumb the reactor in with PVC .

(1) GAC [ROX from BRS]
(2) Reef Octopus BR-110 Biopellet reactor with BRS biopellets
(3) Empty but I will use for GFO if the biopellets cannot keep up




Here is the left side of the sump. You can see 2 1.5" drains. The one with the gate valve is the siphon, and the one beside it is the open backup drain.

Everything is powered off an EB8 which is the powerbar used for the Apex controller.

Skimmer is a Super Reef Octopus 3000 INT. Great skimmer. Really it is great.

Two Drew's dosers dose calcium and alk. Calcium and alk are recipe one from Bulk Reef Supply.



Here is a sump overview.

Upper left is a square that my overflow drains into which keeps the level constant for the siphon and makes it easy to place filter sock. Next is the skimmer section. There is a 500w finnex heater in there. Next are two misc sections. The upper one I have a DSB in with some rubble. The lower one is for my skimmer drain so the skimmer does not keep skimming the same water. I am planning on putting some Live Rock in there. Finally is my return section with my Tunze Osmolator ATO and two more heaters. The pH, temp, and ORP probes are in the baffles between the last two sections.



As you can see when you use a siphon overflow there are *zero* bubbles/microbubbles. No bubbles and no sound, there is no other way to go.

Adam

[ataller]

Still to come...

I am getting an automatic neck cleaner for the skimmer.

I also have yet to receive my apex display module back as the LED burnt out.

As well, my 2nd vortech is still non functional. Hopefully I will have a replacement driver soon. One day I plan on running a gyre system with 4 vortechs so I can spin the tank clockwise and then counter clockwise.

....

[NanoSF]

How are you holding that screen top up? There doesn't seem to be any clips holding it. Is it just jammed in there tight?

[ataller]

Yup just friction.

It isnt in there all that tight, I wanted to be able to take it off and put it back on easily.

[NanoSF]

I have the same screen top on a rimless and I found these clear plastic clips that are barely noticeable on ebay. They slip over the rimless glass edge and provide a shelf to sit the screen top onto. Here is the post where I showed this part of my set up.

http://ovas.ca/forum/index.php?topic=52544.msg294459#msg294459

[az]

howabout using magnet??

[ataller]

  No clips, no magnets. The screen top sits in there with friction alone. I spent a good amount of time sizing the frame exactly. I can slip the top in and out with relative ease, and yet when it is in there it is solid.