250 gal. Mixed Reef - From Start to Finish

[Herstead]

Hi Everyone!

As some of you know Stephanie (Nienna) and I are setting up a 250 gal. Deep Dimension mixed reef tank. We bought the tank with its stand and a bunch of equipment off of the Classifieds last year and have been planning, researching and buying equipment as it goes on sale since then.

We have a 4 foot Vertex LED array, an RO/DI system, about 150 lbs. of dry rock, an electric salinity meter and Hanna Checkers to name a few key pieces of equipment. Photos of some of that will come in the future.

In order to set up the tank on our main floor we had an engineering report done on the floor and just recently completed the reinforcement. The reinforcement included tripling up 5 floor joists and adding a second jackpost under the beam. The photos show the work done.

We will try to keep this thread updated with progress.

- Jonathan

[exv152]

Do the joist supports go the full length of the floor/joists? Just curious in case I need to get the same thing done.

[NjOyRiD]

is there a way we can contact that engeneer?

[Herstead]

Hi again,

Yes the joists go along the full length of the floor between beams, and the name of the engineering firm was Star Engineering here in Ottawa.

I will warn you it cost just over $600 to get the official report with tax and depending on your situation could cost more. Also, any engineering report will maintain the safety factor in the house so their report is how to add that much weight and still be as safe as a normal room not just safe enough for the tank. A lot of people use the wiggle room the safety factor gives to reduce the amount of reinforcement needed but engineers are required by law not to do that and as we're both engineers, we respect that extra safety.

- Jonathan

[gerryo]

Well said, Jonathan.

And a very nice job indeed.

[Herstead]

Hi again,

I forgot to mention at the same time we had 2 GFCI plugs installed. Each one also has a new 15 amp breaker just for it. This means if one trips the other still works. We will try to always have at least one pump on both circuits so circulation is maintained.

- Jonathan

[gerryo]

" one pump on both circuits ".

Isn't that defeating the purpuse of the GFCI?  I don't think that it's the circuit that goes faulty but the pump would be the culprit.

[redbelly]

As you cant have a single pump plugged into multiple circuit I am pretty sure he means one pump on each circuit.

So if/when one pump does become faulty and trips the gfi, the other pump will be on the other circuit and so it will keep running.

Unless you are buying so very cheap return pumps i find they dont trip gris very often. Its usually heaters and cheap circulation pumps like mj's.
Titanium heaters are normally WAY better imo.
With all pumps (return or circulation) typically the more expensive ones have a better epoxy casing.

[veron]

I would have had 20amp breakers instead of 15amp. If you can change them out that would be better. Chances are you'll be running more than just 1 pump on that circuit correct? Most if not all new installs for kitchens etc,, use 20 amp T slot outlets. way more wiggle room. If your putting lights,power heads,heaters etc... on other breakes then you might be okay but if your using just the 2 x 15 amp breakers to run your entire tank I'd upgrade.

[Herstead]

Hi,

Yes I meant at least 1 pump on each circuit.

We only need 15 amps each, as far as I can tell. With everything running we should be under 25 amps total. Our lights are LED which mean a lot less draw then some. Also, we would prefer to trip a breaker if something starts to draw way over its normal limit instead of burning the house down. If I need to I will change them out though.

- Jonathan

[Stussi613]

Hi,

Yes I meant at least 1 pump on each circuit.

We only need 15 amps each, as far as I can tell. With everything running we should be under 25 amps total. Our lights are LED which mean a lot less draw then some. Also, we would prefer to trip a breaker if something starts to draw way over its normal limit instead of burning the house down. If I need to I will change them out though.

- Jonathan

At 12.5 amps on a 15 amp circuit you're at the top end of the practical load on the circuit for each 15 amp breaker. When I size PDU's for servers 25 amps is the max I'll rate the PDU's for on a 30 amp circuit, leaving 15% overhead, but that's mostly to deal with inrush issues that could spike the circuit over 30 amps and take the stack down. 

I'm not sure anything you are running would cause a spike, but something to consider...especially since the efficacy of breakers diminishes exponentially if they've been tripped more than once.

[veron]

well, having set up a lot of tanks over the years your gonna use up 2 x 15 amps very fast !  15 amps is not
what you be tripping at anyways. Once your around 12 amps any little spike will trip and it usually happens when your not home. If your running GFCI the chances of burning down your house are very slim and it won't matter wether 15 or 20 amp.   a 250g tank will need many things and your gonna probably regret 15 amp breakers.
Skimmer, return pump,power heads,lights, topoff,heaters to mention a few things. It takes nothing to change out a breaker and outlet and won't cost you any more hydro so why  not?   Your GFCI is what will trip before the breaker anyways. Looks like a fun project.

[Herstead]

Hi all,

I guess I will switch them out with 20 amp breakers. I think I would have been OK since our lights only draw 420W total but I will bow to your collective knowledge.

- Jonathan

[veron]

Good call.  :]   you'll be suprised of the things not thought of...
new water mixing pump, Kalk stirrer, carbon & GFO media,, the list goes on...
Maybe later on you don't like LEDS?? and you want to change out.. ya never know.

[Nienna]

Breakers have now been switched out - this weekend was big decision time - figuring out exactly which fish we want!

One of the key resources we used to help us figure out what would work is the fish compatibilty thread over on Reef Central (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2068112) - generally Steve (Snorvich) will review your planned stocking list for peaceful tanks and let you know about potential issues.

So without further delay, here's the list with a fish cutout picture!

1) Pair of Amphiprion ocellaris (Fancy Snowflake Clowns) M+F
2) Pair of tank-bred Pterapogon kauderni (Banggai Cardinals) M+F
3) Harem of Pseudanthias bimaculatus (Twin-spot Anthias) M+FFFFF
4) Pair of Synchiropus splendidus (Mandarin Dragonets) M+F After pods population is going strong (8-12 months).
5) An Acanthurus coeruleus (Atlantic Blue Tang)
6) An Ecsenius midas (Midas Blenny)
7) A Siganus doliatus (Scribbled Rabbitfish)
8) A Chromis cyaneus (Blue Reef Chromis)
9) A Chromis atripectoralis (Black Axil Chromis)
10) Pair of Centropyge loriculus (Flame Angel) M+F
11) A Chelmon Marginalis (Marginal Butterfly) from Australia.
12) A Halichoeres chrysotaenia or Halichoeres chrysus (Vrolik's or Canary Wrasse) We will have a 2 inch sand bed.

And Finally we will chose 1 or 2 of the following groups:
a) Pair of Cirrhilabrus lineatus (Lineatus Wrasse) M+F
b) Pair of Cirrhilabrus rhomboidalis (Gold Rhomboid Fairy Wrasse) M+F
c) Trio of Paracheilinus carpenter or Paracheilinus mccoskeri (Carpenter's or McCosker's Flasher Wrasse) M+FF

[az]

i'd recommend;

pair of flame wrasse would add lots of color.

goby shrimp pair for the bottom.

yellow eye kole tang or any bristle tooth tang will help with algae.

a royal gramma.

few barnacle blennys.

[Herstead]

Hi all,

We have decided to put the sump in the basement so we can have a large one.
We are going to use http://www.tscstores.com/2-X-2-X-6-150-GALLON-POLY-STOCK-TANK-P3658.aspx as it is on sale. A few other sizes are also on sale till tomorrow if anyone is interested.

The main drawback is an aluminium plug that needs to be sealed over.

The 150 gallons will bring system up to around 350 gal. and still leave 50 gal room to drain back to the sump.

- Jonathan

[Aquaticfinatic]

Gotta be an update by now no??

[Herstead]

Update:

We have gotten all our dry rock and will soon be building our aquascaping. Our background is going to be dry rock and foam with an egg-crate base. We have reattached the bottom brace of the aquarium (it had come off during transport).

The main return pump we are going to use is a Reeflo Blowhole 2700 and is currently on back-order till the 8th.

Other than that we have been getting the house ready, we still need to paint the wall behind where the tank is going.

- Jonathan Herstead

[Herstead]

Hi all,

So we are now working on the rock work. We think this will be basically what it will will look like, please chime in with any glaring problems we have missed.

We will be working on the foam and rock background next.

- Jonathan and Stephanie