What is this green algae on my sand?

[briannesbitt]

Hi all,

Wanted to get some information on a green algae that is growing on the sand in our tank and our options.

From my reading it could be algae or potentially Cyanobacteria I guess as well.  Our 45 gallon has been running for almost 2 years now and this is our first real algae problem.  I mean sure I have scraped the glass a few times, but this is much more than that!  With our larger (thicker diameter) vacuum its too heavy and doesn't get sucked up.  So we have used a thinner diameter vacuum but that also tends to take some sand out with it.  Even when we do this it mostly grows back in less than a week.

Pics:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a8azw4pn2vgvdft/Wide.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jc6lsjq5f58radb/Wide2.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8mocjd0e631smfa/Closeup.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ase87gvu9qn6uo8/Closeup2.jpg

Some more info about our 45g tank:

Bottom feeders:
We have a raphael catfish.  We had a healthy population of trumpet, red ramshorn and pond snails.  We added (about 6 months ago) some yo yo loaches.  I never see red ramshorn or pond snails any more (is it even possible to wipe them out?? guess so!).  Still see some limited MTS's when the lights are out... more empty shells than full ones though.  I understand with their shells they are a little harder for the loaches to eat.  Not even sure if they would help this algae situation or not anyway.

Lights / Timer
We have our light on a timer and it runs for 8 hours a days

Food
A few months ago we switched to 1mm sinking pellets from New life spectrum.  Some Hikari bottom feeder pellets and shrimp pellets.  Occasionally blood worms and brine shrimp.

Fish: Bleeding hearts, black skirts, yoyo's + raphael.

Filters: Fluval C4 and AC 30.

Any thoughts?  Thanks!

[sanny]

Cut down on lighting to reduce the algae growth. Good luck!

[charlie]

Cyanobacteria for sure, no fish will eat it.
how old are your light bulbs?
siphon/manually as much as you can out of the tank, lean filters etc, large water change, clean your deco  & then black out the tank for 3-5 days( Google blacking out aquarium) after the 3-5 days repeat the filter cleaning & water change, hopefully that works to rid it.
If all else fails use API Erythromycin
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=16818
Regards & good luck

[wolfiewill]

Sorry. Charlie posted while I was writing this and I agree with him. But.... here is the post I was doing:

Without a good close up it's hard to tell what it really is, but it looks like cyanobacteria or blue-green algae. There has been so much written about it it's worth your while to google it ('cyanobacteria' with 'aquarium' should do it). Here are some reputable sites:

http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/member-submitted-articles/cyanobacteria-23633/
http://www.aquascapingworld.com/algaepedia/full_view_algae.php?item_id=40
http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummagazine/apr08/cyanobacteria.htm
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/controlling-cyanobacteria

Firstly, there are some non invasive methods that can be successful and don't need antibiotics or hydrogen peroxide. I would suggest trying them first. They work by starving the cyanobacteria. Start by cleaning all surfaces thoroughly. All decorations can and should be removed and left out 'till the problem is resolved. Then do water changes - several of 50% over a couple or three days (or two 80% in row). Aggressively vacuum the sand.  Removing the surface layer of sand is way more important than keeping it at this point, you can always add more later. Increase your water movement to above 5x the tank volume per hour (for a 45 usg tank, that's 250 usg per hour - check the filters boxes or on line for through put for each). You may need to clean the filters to increase the flow. Stop feeding the fish so much, and remove any food that isn't eaten within 5 minutes, and stop feeding sinking pellets 'till the problem is solved (uneaten bits need to be removed after an hour when you do resume it).

However, the most significant issue is light. Reduce the time your lights are on. This is the only nutrient this algae really needs and may be the most important, single cause. If you don't have live plants, then leave the lights off? Use them only when feeding the fish. THE QUICKEST WAY TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM, is to shut the lights off, cover the tank so absolutely no light gets in, and leave it for seven days after the thorough cleaning and several large water changes (if the water flow is good your fish will survive).

Once the problem appears to be gone, do 50% water changes weekly, and thoroughly clean ALL surfaces first. If you don't have live plants you need to keep the nitrates and phosphates as close to zero as possible, and don't leave the lights on. The fish only need the ambient room light anyways. My Bleeding Hearts are always under the foliage when the lights are on and are very big, and very healthy.

Please keep us up to date on your progress. We like to hear how you're doing. Cheers.

[sas]

And just to add to the above two great posts, Do Not add anymore fish until you have the algae issue rectified.
Do keep us posted please .

[briannesbitt]

Thanks for the information guys.  I do have live plants in the tank.  I also just replaced the light buld about 2 months ago so its fairly new.

We have had 4 fish in our QT for over a month now.... they look great though... guess they can wait a bit longer !

The main live plant is slightly covered by the green stuff as well so I think at least the outer layer of leaves will be coming off.

Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes.

[charlie]

Thanks for the information guys.  I do have live plants in the tank.  I also just replaced the light buld about 2 months ago so its fairly new.

We have had 4 fish in our QT for over a month now.... they look great though... guess they can wait a bit longer !

The main live plant is slightly covered by the green stuff as well so I think at least the outer layer of leaves will be coming off.

Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes.

A bit more, the unmistaken odour of Cyano bacteria will quickly confirm it is Cyano, it is very pungent when disturbed.
After viewing the pictures a few times , I highly doubt your  live plant mass & growth rate is relative to your outbreak, the plant mass seems to be too low, Treatment for Cyano in a live planted tank & a non planted, differs slightly.
Focus on cleaning sand bed , filters etc, cut back your feedings & as mentioned try the black out method after intial cleaning to kill the rest. You can also try increasing water flow in your tank when all is cleared.
Regards

[soleil1980]

I had an outbreak in my 120g once and the only way I was able to control it is by doing a blackout.  Also, I have noticed that if a tank gets sunlight and there is not enough water flow (too many plants/decorations), you will have an outbreak.  I have read about hydrogen peroxyde treatment but it did nothing for me.  Blackout and reduce sunlight exposure.