Build your own co2 2 stage regulator

[charlie]

If any of you have been contemplating putting together a 2 stage regulator for your self, there are a couple of quality components on e bay I would not hesitate to recommend , these parts  are new never used

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ONE-NEW-DRUVA-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-IN-ORIGINAL-PACKAGING-/141442305434?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ee9e4d9a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hoke-Metering-Valve-1-8-NPT-/191358281080?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item2c8dd7a578
If anyone is interested , PM me , I will give you a good idea on what you can get it for shipped.
Errol

[charlie]

Ok I could not resist the temptation, after selling off all my excess 2 stage regulators, I had no back up in hand but had a  few parts ( brand new)in my collection, things like Swagelok stainless steel fittings, Burkert solenoid, Parker stainless steel H3 metering valve, chrome CGA 320 stem & nut - yes Rah I had being hoarding them  
All I really needed was a Regulator body, but I put it off, that was until I got a great deal on a brand spanking new Concoa/Restek 312 chrome brass 2 stage regulator & pulled the plug, this regulator new out of the store will probably run you close to 400.00 or more ( Not sure), I certainly did not pay that, E bay can be your best friend at times and temptation I might add  

[charlie]

As you can see in the last picture , the stem & nut( where the regulator is screwed on to the gas bottle) are not the correct one for CO2 , for this we need a CGA 320 nut & Nipple(Stem) the choice is yours of which one you use, it can be brass, chromed brass( my choice for this build since I had one ) or Stainless steel.
To remove the one that came with the regulator, I used a 11/16 wrench


and installed the chromed brass CGA 320  version for CO2.
It was then time to attach the regulator to a CO2 Bottle for a leak test.
How do you leak test a regulator/- Before attaching the regulator to the bottle make sure the bottle valve is securely closed off, attach the regulator & hand tighten with a wrench the nut( don`t forget the co2 gasket in the nut)
The working pressure knob must be fully closed, not allowing any gas from the bottle to flow to the regulator.
The exit port on the regulator should also be closed.
Open the valve on the co2 bottle fully, the right gauge/ gas gauge for the bottle level should move up to read how much pressure is in the bottle ( for a full bottle it should read between 800-1000 PSI)
Note the reading & leave the it in this stage for 4 - 6 hours, if the pressure drops, it`s an indication of a leak between the bottle & the first stage - check for leaks on all connections between the bottle and the regulator, if none is found it is a indication of an internal leak in the first stage of the regulator = regulator is no good

Note the right gauge is reading 400 , indication that my 15 lb bottle is about half full also note the left gauge is reading "0", that is because the working knob is closed & no gas is flowing into the second stage ( working pressure knob is the big knob in the front centre of the regulator) unlike most other valves the ones on the regulator needs to be full anti clockwise to be in the closed position.
If the regulator passes the first stage leak test move on to testing the second stage - double check the exit/out port is shut off / closed & slowly open the working pressure valve by turning the big knob clockwise to about 40-80 PSI
Note the reading & again leave it for 4-6 hrs. - check after if the pressure did not move = regulator passed with flying colors, if it changed  again check for external leaks on the out/exit port connections, if none is found you have an internal leak in the second stage of the regulator = regulator no good.


Holding at 60 psi, Regulator passed leak test now on to the fun part - putting the pieces together.
To be continued.........

[daworldisblack]

Lol here he goes again! Its an addiction :p

[exv152]

I love my two Concoa 312's, they're really nice regulators, you're going to like yours! With a bit of brasso-metal-polish, they shine-up real nice too
 

[charlie]

I love my two Concoa 312's, they're really nice regulators, you're going to like yours! With a bit of brasso-metal-polish, they shine-up real nice too
 

actually it was your first Concoa that I saw & held that made me a fan of it, it is indeed a nice piece.
One of the most commons I hear about doing this type of build is - " too expensive", doing this requires a fair amount of research,  bargain hunting on auction sites such as e bay & forums, buying pieces when they are available @ bargain prices.
The quality, durability & benefits, justifies the slight difference in price that you would pay for a store bought single stage unit that is no way compares in quality, performance & durability for 40-60 dollars more, for me that is a no brainer.

[charlie]

We should also be aware, that the choice of material for everything in the build , including the regulator is up to the person doing it or wanting one.
The most common material used are Brass, chrome or Zinc coated & stainless steel.
The brass fittings etc are the cheapest way to go but still maintains the functionality , of course like everything else , all parts are not made alike & some of the cheaper fitting can have tolerance issues with the threads. this can cause improper sealing, Thankfully this is not common & the brass fittings from your local Hardware store such as Home Depot,Lowes stock fittings by watts and it works just fine, the best local place I have found for availability of brass fittings is Ottawa Fastener, the brass fitting will reduce your cost significantly  .cost.http://www.ottawafastenersupply.com/

Note that all ports on the Regulator body is usually 1/4 " NPT, everything we use after the regulator body AKA post body is 1/8 NPT
To do the transition from the regulator out port (1/4 NPT) we need to have some form of reduction to 1/8 NPT, this is done via a reducing bushing or reducing nipple.The pictures below depicts both in stainless but like mentioned it can be some form of brass -

[charlie]

Now it`s time to move on to the transition from 1/4 NPT to 1/8 NPT so we can start assembling the post body ( solenoid needle valve etc).

As mentioned earlier we need either a reducing bushing or a reducing nipple, for this build I have chosen to use a stainless steel reducing nipple, but before I do this I need to remove the manual flow valve from the out port of the regulator.

In other to do this I need to remove the low pressure gauge or change it`s orientation, in this case  I opted to change the orientation temporally to allow the manual flow valve clearance as I unscrew it.

Now I can remove the valve &  attach the 1/4 NPT to 1/8 NPT reducing nipple


Make sure the hole is free of any debris before attaching the nipple.

Now I`m ready to install my post body parts.

[charlie]

Point to note, all threaded pcs must have a thread sealant to prevent gas leaks, most common one used is thread tape, this is applied in a clockwise rotation on the thread, 2-4 wraps will suffice.
At this point I start to configure the orientation of the pcs, they are endless ways to configure the post body, it`s a good idea to dry fit the pcs( a mock up) and see what works best.
In this build I choose to have the burkert solenoid attached to the 1/8 nipple, the option of a 90 degree elbow before the solenoid is also popular.

[charlie]

next is the 90 degree elbow

Then the metering valve

and the check valve

and finally a 90 degree male 1/8 NPT to 1/4 inch compression tube, the last fitting is up to whatever suits your taste, example some will use a m/m 1/8 NPT elbow and attach a bubble counter.

At this stage I re check alignment & clean up excess tape etc. attach power coil to the solenoid, and leak test again by inverting a check valve to block any gas coming out from the needle valve.
I do this by setting up the regulator as I did when leak testing the second stage of the regulator & opening the metering valve to let CO 2 out, because of the inverted check valve at the end of the tube , the entire system will be pressurised, let it stand over night & check your gauges to see if you lost pressure.
I should have mentioned this earlier, when leak testing , the bottle valve must be closed after pressurising the system.
Final pictures to follow.
I will post some links later that also helps  & where I got most of my info.
I hope this thread will help anyone who undertake such a project, the end result is quality product at a fraction of the retail prices, reliability & long lasting piece of equipment, high resale value and of course the self satisfaction of building your own & the envy of others 

[charlie]

If you have any question or suggestion , please don`t be shy, lets hear them.

[charlie]

Now into bag - box -storage.
Thanks for following, now go build.

[missavgp]

Love following your posts Errol. You give really great information and it makes me want to give this a try someday with this thread for my reference. 

[charlie]

Thanks Keri, they are just a handful of us who have done this & have experienced the difference
No end of tank dump, consistent co2 delivery, very easy control tweaking of co 2 rate.
The other guys can add to their experience to this option.
I stand willing to help anyone desiring to attempt this.
Errol

[charlie]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4MBLVrW16c
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=148509

[exv152]

Thanks Keri, they are just a handful of us who have done this & have experienced the difference
No end of tank dump, consistent co2 delivery, very easy control tweaking of co 2 rate.
The other guys can add to their experience to this option.
I stand willing to help anyone desiring to attempt this.
Errol

Just to add to what Errol is saying, you also benefit from a regulator that will last you a lifetime, the same cannot be said of milwaukee, azoo, aquatek, DICI etc. They're far more likely to fail and cost you more in replacements. Also, if you have expensive fish like discus or expensive/rare shrimp, a slight change in CO2 delivery can decimate your fauna. Which is what caused me, and a few others I know, to switch to dual stage regulators and/or pH controllers. You just hook it up and let all the CO2 empty to the bottom of the cylinder with no worries. The other great point about building your own regulator is it gives you the tools to learn the ins and outs of CO2 equipment, which enables you to later trouble-shoot your own problems. If you're a hands-on type person, like I am, you'll even enjoy putting one together.

[charlie]

For anyone tempted to do this, here is a nice unit & brand new
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airgas-2-stage-high-purity-100psig-gas-pressure-regulator-360-2-350V-/381043921328?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276

[lucius]

My knee hurts from jumping on the bandwagon. 

[charlie]

The pain will subside once you start enjoying your project 
LMK if you need help with other parts.
Errol

[lucius]

I just started shopping around for stainless steel CGA320 fittings and I didn't realize they were so pricey.  Any good leads?